The sign of the unicorn. A fabric shop for 18th century reenactors and historians.

Books: Textiles

On this page we cater to aficionados who want to know more about the fabrics and techniques involved in authentic costume-design. Here are historic, scholarly and contemporary works on textiles, weaving, embroidery, and lace-making.

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Costume | Accessories | Zeitgeist | Re-enacting | Textiles | Techniques

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Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West

by Rosemary Crill

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One difficulty of historical reenacting is understanding printed fabrics. This book discusses the beginning and growth of one type of printed and painted fabric, its trade to the west, how it was made, and what it was used for. The exquisiteness of this book, are the full color plates and details of those plates to illustrate the intricacies of the prints. About 90 full color glossy images of chintz fabrics are pictured all of which are from 1780 and earlier. The text describes the changing tastes from the early 17th century up to the 1780s and points out the plates which best illustrate those changes. A list of further reading is provided for those whose interest is stirred.

Hardcover, 144 pp., 12" × 10"
$55

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Textiles in America 1650-1870

by Florence Montgomery

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A dictionary on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements and pattern books with original swatches of cloth.

This is the reprint everyone in reenacting has been waiting for. First published in 1984, it remains the definitive study of Textiles as they were used in early American homes. The book offers an overview of textiles in America, based on years of research that is unmatched in scope.

The late Florence Montgomery was the assistant curator of textiles at the Winterthur Museum.

Hardcover. pp 496; 8" × 10"
117 color and 225 black & white illustrations
$50

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Tartan:
The Highland Habit

by Hugh Cheape

Hugh Cheape, the Head of the Scottish Material Culture Research Center at the National Museums of Scotland, explores the story of tartan from the medieval to the Victorian invention of exclusive clan identity. With the spotlight on Bonnie Prince Charlie's kilt and 'ancient' tartans, the history of the Highlands and its society is brought to life. This new revised edition of the 1995 edition was a best seller for years. This edition has a larger format, more pages, information on women's Highland habit, and new information on the results of dye analysis from an extant kilt.

$17.95 pp 112, 159 color, 21 B/W illustrations, 7 1/2" × 6"

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Flax and Linen
(A Shire Book)

Patricia Baines

Flax has been cultivated for thousands of years to produce the fibre to make linen. This book gives an account of the processes and tools involved in the production of linen from flax. The traditional methods, when the work was done by hand, are described, as well as some of the improvements and machines that have been developed.

Patricia Baines studied textile crafts at the Gloucestershire College of Art and Design.

0 85263 727 6
(Album 133) 32 pp, 47 ills.
$7.00

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Costume Close-Up:
Clothing Construction and Patterns 1769-1790

Linda Baumgarten and John Watson

Not just clothing patterns but a detailed examination of the inside of the garments, how the fabric was manufactured and who wore them. A must for the study of costume and a great addition to the bookshelf of a re-enactor.

10" × 12", 120 pages
ISBN number 0-87935-188-8
$24.95

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"Death Head" buttons, their use and construction

by Norman H. Fuss

A Treatise on how thread wrapped buttons known as "Death Head" were made and used in 18th Century Clothing.

Mr. Fuss has written a book that has clear and concise instructions and easy to follow photographs showing the process to make a thread covered button. Not just an instruction book, the history of the button along with many photographs of extant clothing is included.

This book is a must for the construction of well-made civilian clothing. "They appear to have been used primarily on less formal attire intended for business and informal social wear rather than formal or court attire" according to Mr. Fuss. He adds that there is some evidence that their use may extend down to the lower sort as well. With the directions in this book and wood button blanks you can make your own death head buttons.

Mr. Fuss taught me how to make death head buttons and I put them on Fred's coat, they certainly add that extra pizzazz!

softcover 23 pages
$8.00

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18th Century Embroidery Techniques

by Gail Marsh

In this fascinating book, Gail Marsh tells how 18th-century embroiderers created such exquisite items. Insightful text, detailed illustrations plus captivating color photographs of museum-held pieces provide the reader with a thorough understanding of 18th-century embroidery techniques. Pertinent quotes from ladies and gentlemen of the period serve to highlight the importance of dress and appearance at that time. Includes a section covering 18th century tools and equipment, plus details and illustrations of the following techniques:

  • Metal embroidery
  • Silk embroidery
  • Quilting
  • Whitework
  • Tambour and chain
  • Crewel work
  • Novelty threads

Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd. 2006
Hardcover 8 1/2" × 11" 192 pp.
$34.95 now only $24.95

Hazel's Comment: When I opened this book I was immediately attracted by the detail and photography. This book is a must for all those who study costume whether for re-enacting, the stage or fashion design, also a valuable addition to the libraries of embroidery students and needlework enthusiasts.

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Samplers
(A Shire Book)

Pamela Clabburn

Samplers have a long history in Britain, dating from the sixteenth century. They were originally a collection of patterns gathered together for easy reference to be used in embroidery and needlepoint lace. Later they developed into a schoolgirl's exercise and today they are more often used to record stitches than patterns. This book traces the history of samplers in Britain from the late sixteenth century onwards and includes examples of long, darning, map, school, stitch and plain sewing samplers as well as those associated with great events and private griefs and joys.

40 pp., 34 color, 22 b/w illustrations
$8.95

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Lessons in Bobbin Lacemaking

By Doris Southard

Instructions for the beginner and a valuable tool for the more experienced. The recommended book for learning the craft of bobbin lace.

If you find this book interesting you might also be interested in our Bone and Ebony Bobbins.

8 1/2" × 11", 216 pages
ISBN number 0486271226
$15.95

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Costume | Accessories | Zeitgeist | Re-enacting | Textiles | Techniques

 

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