Black and White 1/4" Check WLM 20057" Wide, $9.00/yd. Small black and white check linen was used throughout the 18th century to make men's shirts or and as a lining material. Much less commonly women's gowns and petticoats were made of check linens. The black stripes are 2 threads (just less than 1/8") wide and separated by 1/4" of white. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1732, during the trial of highway robbery the prisoner asked "Was I in the same Dress as I am in now?" and the constable replyed "No, you was in a Sailor's Dress, with a Check Shirt.". White linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing would be a good choice. |
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Blue 1/8" Check WLN 31561" Wide, $12.00/yd. Small blue and white check linen was very commonly used throughout the 18th century to make women's aprons and men's shirts but is difficult to find today. In The New York Journal of 1772, "Run away . . . two Irish servant women . . . with small check aprons each". White linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing would be a good choice. |
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Light Brown and White 1/8" Check WLN 31762" Wide, $12.00/yd. Brown and white check was only slightly less common than blue and white. This linen is a good weight for men's shirts but could also be used for a lining. Much less common are the occasional check shortgowns or petticoats. In The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . of March, 1776 . . . the following servants, viz. . . . a German, born in the country of Hesse . . . by trade a taylor . . . Had on and took with him . . . one white and three check shirts". Off white linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing would work well for this material. |
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Black 1/8" Check WLN 31462" Wide, $12.00/yd. The warp of this linen has a 1/8" wide black stripe and the weft has a natural 1/8" wide stripe making this fabric a check. The natural stripe is so subtle that it is hardly noticeable. This linen is a good weight for men's shirts but could also be used for a lining. Stripe petticoats, gowns, and women's jackets were very common and since the natural stripe is hardly noticeable this linen would be a good choice. In The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . living in Newtown township, Gloucester county, West New Jersey, opposite Philadelphia, three Dutch servants; two . . . man and wife . . . his wife . . . had on, when she went away, a check linen short gown, with an apron to it". Off white linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and white, black or natural 1" cotton twill tape would all match this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and gowns. |
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Blue and White Stripe WLN 13356" Wide, $8.99/yd. Blue and white stripe linens are the most commonly seen. This is a good weight for women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats and men's shirts and waistcoats. In 1771 written in The New York Journal, "Run away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on a broad blue and white striped homespun petticoat, and a smaller striped blue and white jacket". Off white linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Brown and Natural 1/4" Check WLN 31664" Wide, $12.00/yd. Brown and white check linens were very common throughout the 18th and early 19th centurys. This check was very common for men's shirts but could also be used as a lining. In The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . the following servants, viz. Two servant men, Taylors by trade, one . . . had on . . . one white and one check shirt". Off white linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing will work well with this linen. |
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Unbleached Mixed Stripe WLG 152$10/yd. Stripe linens were very common for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats were also often striped. Striped linens were also sometimes used as a lining. In the 1767 Virginia Gazette, "RUN AWAY . . . a convict servant man . . . an Englishman . . . had on when he went away a blue homemade drugget jacket lined with striped linen . . . he has been a sailor . . . As he is a very good scholar, it is imagined he will forge a pass." Unbleached linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Black 1/4" Check WLN 31860" Wide, $12.00/yd. Small black and white check linen was used throughout the 18th century to make men's shirts or as a lining. Much less commonly women's gowns and petticoats were made of check linens. The black stripes are 1/8" wide and separated by 1/4" of white. This check is a 2/1 twill making it a bit unusual although it is a subtle effect. In The Virginia Gazette of 1770, "Run away . . . a servant woman . . . she had on an old check bedgown". Off white linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing would be a good choice. |
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Thin Natural Stripe WLN 10560" Wide $8.50/yd. This striped linen has 1/8" wide stripes and would be great for a shirt, lining, or women's jacket, gown, or petticoat. In The Pennsylvania Evening Post of 1777 "Was stolen . . . an apprentice girl . . . She was stolen by her mother . . . and had on a small striped linen gown and petticoat". Unbleached linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Natural Stripe WLV 60253% Linen/47% Cotton, 55" Wide, $11/yd. Being lighter weight this linen cotton blend would make a nice summer garment or would require a lining to provide it more body. The natural stripes are 3/4" wide and the white are 1/8" wide. In New Jersey in 1777 a servant women took with, "one old quilted petticoat, a cloth coloured ditto, and a striped linen ditto". Unbleached linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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1/4" Brown Cross-Bar Check WLN 101$11/yd. Cross-bar differs from other checks in that it has thin intersecting stripes. Cross-bar was used for laboring women's gowns, petticoats, neck handkerchiefs, and for lining garments. In The Pennsylvania Chronicle in 1771, "Ran away . . . a Dutch servant girl . . . Had, and took with her . . . a cross-barred, and two striped flannel petticoats". |
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Blue Stripe WLN 100$11/yd. Blue and white stripes were some of the most common available in the 18th century. This fabric would make a nice women's gown, jacket, or petticoat. For a man this would make a nice waistcoat. The Pennsylvania Evening Post reported in 1777, "Ran away . . . a Scotch servant girl . . . She had on, when she went away, a striped homespun blue and white short gown". |
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Unbleached Off White Stripe WLN 1223 to 4 oz., 56" Wide, $8.99/yd. The light stripe is 3/8" wide separated by unbleached linen of 2". Each stripe has 3 off white pin stripes set to one side of the unbleached stripe making this a subtle asymmetrical stripe. Stripes were very commonly used for women's gowns and petticoats and sometimes for men's jackets and waistcoats. In 1779 written in The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Was stolen last night from the subscriber living at the Unicorn tavern…16 miles from Philadelphia, the following articles, viz . . . two striped linen short gowns". When hand sewing this linen try 60/2 unbleached linen thread. |
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Thick and Thin Natural Stripe WLN 104
This tightly woven linen has more body and would therefore be good for men's trousers, jacket, waistcoat, or coat. It would be equally good for a women's jacket, petticoat, or stays. In 1771 The Virginia Gazette advertised "COMMITTED to the gaol . . . a runaway servant . . . He is an Irishman . . . His cloathing is . . . a striped linen jacket, laced before". Unbleached linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Beige Check WLG 149$12/yd. Although this is a great shirt linen trousers could also be made from it. For example in the Boston Gazette in 1774, "a Negro Man Servant" ran away. He "Carried away with him . . . Check Linen Trowsers". |
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Beige Wide Stripe WLG 150$10/yd. Stripe linens of 1/2" wide are sometimes seen for men's trousers or waistcoats. It could also be used for women's gowns, petticoats, and jackets. In 1772 The Virginia Gazette published, "RUN away . . . from on Board the Snow Anne, at Port Royal, two Convicts [one of them] . . . had on, and took with him . . . a Pair of striped Linen Trousers; he is a Farmer. They are both North of England Men, and speak bad English". In The Virginia Gazette of 1772 "RUN away . . . a very likely young Virginia born Negro Man . . . He carried with him . . . brown and white Linen Shirts". Unbleached linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and natural or white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Beige Wide/Narrow Stripe WLG 151$10/yd. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London in 1770 In the trial of "John Gew, John Marshall, theft with violence: highway robbery" It was recorded that "The person said, I beg pardon, I thought you was the person [Marshall]. I must beg leave to look at your waistcoat (he had been described to have a striped linen waistcoat under another, and a cutlass under that". Unbleached linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Black Stripe WLG 16556" Wide, $7.99/yd. In 1779 written in The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Was stolen last night from the subscriber living at the Unicorn tavern . . . 16 miles from Philadelphia, the following articles, viz . . . two striped linen short gowns". White linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Blue With White Stripe WLN 3113 to 4 oz., 56" Wide, $11/yd. This is a light weight linen and would therefor make a light summer gown, jacket, or petticoat for a woman or a waistcoat for a man. This will probably need a lining to give it more body. In 1770 "Run away . . . a native Irish Servant Woman . . . had on, and took with her . . . two short Gowns, one Calicoe, pieced before with a Piece not the same with the Gown; one striped Linen, blue and white" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette. Medium blue 80/3 linen thread for hand sewing will be a pretty good match. |
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Green With White Stripe WLN 3123 to 4 oz., 56" Wide, $11/yd. Light weight linen like this may require a lining to give it body. But being so fine will make a cool summer waistcoat for a man or gown, jacket, or petticoat for a woman. "Run away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on, when she went away, a . . . green striped petticoat" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1777. Green 80/3 linen thread for hand sewing will be a pretty good match. |
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Brown With White Stripe WLN 1023 to 4 oz., 56" Wide, $11/yd. Besides blue and white, brown and white striped linens were the second most common linen. This is a very fine weight linen and would make a cool summer waistcoat, or petticoat. In 1770 in The New York Gazette, "Run away . . . a Mustee Wench, Servant . . . Had on . . . several striped Pettycoats". Brown 80/3 linen thread for hand sewing is a good match. |
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Unbleached, White and Black Check WLG 14760" Wide, $8.99/yd.
Check linens in the 18th century tended to be symmetrical but this has been popular since the colors were very common. This fabric is good for a man's shirt and occasionally for women's gowns and petticoats. For example "Run away . . . an indented servant woman . . . says she was born near the city of Armagh, in Ireland . . . had on, and took with her . . . a short gown, with some red and white stripes and sprigs through it, a good deal worn, and pieced under the arms with check linen, the colour much faded" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1772. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing will work well. |
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Green Yellow Stripe WLG 13960" Wide, $8.99/yd.
Striped linens were very common for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats and for men's waistcoats. Sometimes striped linens were used for men's jackets and breeches. For example The Virginia Gazette of 1773 "Run away . . . three Convicts, viz . . . a Scotch Woman, about fifty Years old . . . she had on, and took away with her, a Variety of Petticoats, and Bed Gowns of different Stripes and Colours.". White 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing will work well. |
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Pink Stripe WLG 13860" Wide, $8.99/yd.
Striped linens were very common for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats and for men's waistcoats. Sometimes striped linens were used for men's jackets and breeches. For example The New York Gazette of 1770 "Run away . . . living at the White plains . . . a Mustee Wench, Servant to John Underhill . . . Had on when she went away . . . several striped Pettycoats". Ubleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing will work well. |
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Blue and Yellow Small Stripe WLG 18060" Wide, $8.99/yd.
Striped linens were very common for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats and for men's waistcoats. Sometimes striped linens were used for men's jackets and breeches. For example The Pennsylvania Evening Post of 1777 "Was stolen . . . an apprentice girl . . . She was stolen by her mother . . . and had on a small striped linen gown and petticoat". Off white 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing will work well. |
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Indigo 1/8" Stripe WHP 107
Blue and white stripe appears to have been very common for the laboring people in England, Continental Europe, and the New World. It is repeatedly described in runaway descriptions and several ordinal garments are made of very similar linen. This hemp linen is tightly woven and prewashed. It has numerous uses. For women: petticoats, gowns and jackets. For men: waistcoats, jackets, shirts, trousers, breeches, work aprons, workmen's caps and outer breeches (commonly known as slops although this term actually refers to all unfitted clothing). Stipe linen is an excellent choice of fabric for children's clothing too. For example in The Virginia Gazette in 1746 "RAN away . . . a lusty well-set Irish Servant Woman . . . She took with her a Blue and White strip'd Virginia-Cloth Gown". Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural, blue or navy blue matches this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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