A Manuel for the Construction of 18th Century Woman's Shifts
c. 1750s-1790s Constructed in the period manner.

Within each pattern is the new shift book that covers in detail the 18th century woman's shift. Learn how to do the fine stitching and gathering that are the hallmarks of the 18th century shift along with period artwork to guide you. This pattern will walk you through the construction of a shift with techniques based on documented 18th century extant examples. Although full size pattern pieces are not given, directions for measuring the human body are given so a shift made to fit an individual's shape can be excellently executed. A full alphabet along with discussion for marking your shift is included.

$24.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's Shift
1750-1800

English Style Shift (Chemise) A full size pattern of this undermost garment, with stitching instructions, including whip gathered ruffle. This pattern is a composite of similar characteristics found in three original shifts now in museum collections, plus additional documentation. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1772 "Run away . . .  an indented servant woman . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  3 coarse shifts, one of which is a homespun, with a pair of fine sleeves, one ozenbrigs ditto, and one coarse tow ditto, with broken ruffles on the same" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Sizes per pattern, S-M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL.

$16.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's Shift
1790-1820

A full size pattern of this undermost garment, useful for Empire and Federal style gowns, with a drawstring neckline to help adjust shift to gown neckline, and short sleeves to go with the fashion of the period. Based on original cutting directions, with construction techniques from several extant garments.

Includes sizes S-M-L-XL-2XL-3XL.

$16.00

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Country Wives Two Chemises
1805-1807

This pattern includes cutting directions, instructions, and historical notes for two original shifts in the Vancouver Museum.

Includes sizes S-M-L-XL.

$12.00

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Clothing for a Country Born Woman - early 19th Century

A Cold Weather Bed Gown Set

This is a complete starter set for a country woman from about 1800 to 1820. The package includes a full size pattern for a cold weather bedgown, leggings and the "Sally" cap from one of the earlier Country Wives patterns. Also included are diagrams for a short sleeved chemise, along with suggestions and notes to complete the outfit of a Metis woman. Instructions for a handkerchief, and draw string petticoat. The bedgown pattern is made from extant garments and artwork from the period which are all cited in the package.

One size short gown per pattern, including sizes small medium and large.

$24.00

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JP Ryan Basic Wardrobe c. 1780s

This pattern contains a diagram for a draw string shift in all sizes, plus illustrated directions for petticoat, apron and neck handkerchief. Patterns included for short gown and pocket. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1783 "Ran away . . .  an Irish servant Girl . . .  Had on and took with her, a green skirt, dark calicoe short gown, white stockings, leather shoes with low heels, two striped lincey petticoats, a striped red calicoe short gown" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

One size short gown per pattern, bust sizes 32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44,46, 48-50.

$21.00

Basic Six Piece Wardrobe

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Clothing for an Indian Woman-early 19th Century

This pattern comes complete with patterns for the clothing of an Aboriginal woman. Included are patterns for a strap dress, sleeves, leggings and a chemise/shirt. For Ojibwa or Cree there are notes and illustrations to complete your outfit. This pattern is well researched with a large list of citations.

Sizes per pattern, S-M-L.

$20.00

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La Fleur de Lyse Canadienne de la Nouvelle-France with Cap and Coif Pattern circa 1740-1760

This one pattern comes complete with everything a woman needs to begin attending French and Indian (1740 to 1760) era historical events including cap, gown, shift, petticoat, handkerchief, apron, and pocket. Besides shoes and stockings you will be set. A full pattern for the mantelet (known as a bedgown in English) is included with two sleeve versions. This shift pattern has a gathered sleeve. There are patterns for three styles of caps plus a long lappets cap and coif. Also included are cutting instructions for the petticoat, neck handkerchief and apron with two bib styles.

$34.95

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Larkin and Smith "Spring" Cap c. 1779

A new gorgeous cap!

This pattern is for the cap worn in the print Spring by Carington Bowles after John Collet published in 1778-1779. See for example Spring at The British Museum. The cap pattern uses 18th century construction methods to make a truly authentic cap. Full size pattern pieces are provided along with clear instructions.

$9.00

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Larkin and Smith "The Pretty Maid" Cap
c. 1750s - 1780s

A new beautiful cap!

This pattern is for the cap worn by The Pretty Maid in the painting by Henry Morland c. 1750s and reproduced as a copper print in the 1770s. See for example The Pretty Maid at The British Museum. The cap pattern uses 18th century construction methods to make a truly authentic cap. Full size pattern pieces are provided along with clear instructions.

$9.00

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Larkin and Smith Phyllis Wheatley Cap c. 1773

A fabulous cap!

This pattern is for the cap worn by Phyllis Wheatley in her portrait published in her book of poetry in 1773. See POEMS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS RELIGIOUS AND MORAL BY PHILLUS WHEATLEY at the Museum of the American Revolution. The cap pattern uses 18th century construction methods to make a truly authentic cap. Full size pattern pieces are provided along with clear instructions.

$9.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's Caps and Bonnets
for Fashionable and Working Women c. 1790 - 1820

Altogether this pattern provides 16 bonnet variations and two day cap patterns on full size tissue paper. The caps are based on originals whereas the bonnets are inspired by originals and numerous contemporary illustrations. One border pattern for View A and three border patterns for View A are printed on the tissue paper. This Kannik's pattern comes with a twenty page booklet which includes documentation, and extensive easy to follow directions. Embroidery tips, hand sewing stitches, and some special techniques are included as well.

$16.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's Cap and Bonnet

Based on original 18th century directions, this pattern is appropriate for 1760 to 1800. In some cases bonnets outnumber hats such as in New Jersey runaway descriptions. One from 1776 includes a servant woman who left with "a black silk bonnet."

$12.00

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Larkin
18th Century Mitts: c. 1750s-1770s

The pattern is based on an original pair in a private collection. Directions for both plain and fancy mitts are included along with patterns for three sizes, small, medium and large. The construction details as well as the embroidery are based on the original c1750s-70s mitts and are not meant for machine sewing. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Ran away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  she had on and took with her . . .  a pair of black silk mitts" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Includes sizes S-M-L Pattern

$15.00

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Kannik's Korner
Women's/Men's Stockings, Women's Pockets, and Mitts

A full scale, multi-size, pattern for constructed stockings for men or women, with instructions for custom fitting. Can be made of knitted cloth, or of linen cut on the bias (good for 17th, 18th, early 19th century). Five pocket styles, including three mid-18th century (English, Scotch, & Italian), and two second half 18th century from America. Also includes a pattern for women's common linen mitts, cut on the bias (one size). In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1779 "Ran away . . .  a servant woman . . .  She stole and carried off . . .  one pair of white cotton mitts" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Includes stocking sizes S-M-L-XL-2X-3X Pattern

$14.00

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Larkin and Smith
Silk Hats 1750s to 1780s

This pattern fills a void for a very common accessory.

This pattern will allow you to make a silk covered hat and includes 3 sizes and four different styles. The step by step instructions guide you with color photographs and illustrations. All techniques used are based on original 18th century hats from museum collections in both America and England. Hat styles and decorations are directly taken from period portraits and prints. This is a project even a newcomer to hand sewing can easily accomplish. A documentation card is included with each pattern. Many of these silk hats are described in runaway ads for example cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls a newspaper ad in the 1775 Pennsylvania Gazette included "Run away . . .  a native Irish servant girl . . .  had on and took with her, a chip hat covered with black silk".

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Larkin and Smith
Double Sleeve Ruffles c. 1760s-1770s

Add beautiful ruffles to your gown!

These sleeve ruffles are suitable for the 1760s through the early 1780s. The pattern is developed from an extant pair, this pattern will make an exact copy of the originals. Each double ruffle consists of two asymmetrical layers. Even poor women sometimes had ruffles at the sleeves at their gowns (although the ruffles may be worn). For example sometimes ruffles are described at the sleeves of even servants such as in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls 1773 where in The Pennsylvania Gazette an ad included "Run Away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  a purple and white calicoe gown, with ruffles at the sleeves".

$15.00

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Mill Farm
18th Century Woman's Flounces and Mitts

This includes a full scale pattern for adding one of two styles of whitework embroidery single or double elbow flounces to the sleeves of a gown and making elbow length fingerless mitts with a pattern for embroidery. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1783 "BENJAMIN WILLIAMS was indicted for feloniously stealing . . .  one muslin flounce, value 8 s."

$10.00

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Kannik's Korner
Woman's Night Cap 1790 to 1830

A warm night cap for cold evenings.

This Night Cap is intended to be worn in bed and for warmth (not a day cap). It is soft comfortable and elegant; very useful in a time before central heating. Inspired by instructions given in “The Lady’s Economical Assistant”, by a Lady, first printed in 1808 with further documentation from similar original night caps. Construction techniques are based on the minimal information included in the primary source and supplemented with typical construction used in original caps.

The night cap is made with a double layer front head piece for warmth. Options include ruffles on the ends of the bands and tapered or square ends to the front ruffles. It can be worn with the bands hanging loose, tied in a bow, or comfortably wrapped around the neck.

One thing you can count on with Kannik’s Korner are their simple and detailed illustrations. Hand sewing instructions also with simple and clear pictures are always given in their patterns. However, if you need a night cap solely for cold events, or winter emergencies, and don't care about authenticity in sewing, one can be made fairly quickly on machine if you have a rolled hem attachment. Modern machine method steps are also provided for this purpose. This cap pattern is in one size only, based on original information, but can be easily altered per instructions. The pattern is on tissue paper.

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Fashions Revisited 1800-1825 Chemisette with 2 Collar Options

Included in the pattern are options for single, double or triple ruffled standing or falling collar options resulting in numerous variations to have fun with.

All sizes small (bust 28-32) to X large (bust 40-44) are included in the pattern.

$12.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's and Girl's Caps

This pattern includes many styles of everyday headgear used from 1740-1820. Often women try several styles before settling with one that works well for them. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1770 "Run away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  wears sometimes ribbons, and sometimes caps . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  two caps for a child, and linen to make more" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

$16.00

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Country Wives
Caps for the Upper Crust 1790 to 1820

These cap patterns were all created by studying art work of wealthy women in the United States and United Kingdom as well as extant caps from many museums. These caps are more complicated to construct, use several styles and widths of lace, and are more time consuming than many other cap patterns. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "FRANCES MOLTON CRANMER was indicted for burglariously breaking and entering . . .  stealing therein . . .  two double lace caps, value 15s. a dress lace cap, value 10s.".

$16.00

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18th Century Wired Cap

Worn mostly by the middling to gentry classes but is seen in portraits on 'my lady's maids'. This cap was worn as early as 1745 but is most commonly seen from the late 1760s to early 1770s. Required milliner wire is included in the pattern. In The Providence Gazette of 1763 "RAN away . . .  a likely lusty Mulatto Servant Woman . . .  She is extremely nice in her Head Attire, which is generally ornamented after the modern Fashion".

$10.00

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JP Ryan Caps

A simple cap to cover the head, which can be worn with the ears turned toward or away from the face, as desired. An undress cap to be constructed in mid-weight white linen. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "Run away . . .  a Dutch servant girl . . .  had on, when she went away, a round ear'd cap" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

$9.00

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Woman's Caps 1720 to 1800

Women often try several caps before they find one that compliments their face and they feel comfortable wearing. This pattern provides four different styles that may be further adorned with ribbons to provide individual touches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "Run Away . . .  a Dutch servant woman . . .  had on an English cap, with a coarse lawn border" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

$11.00

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Country Wives
British Regency Caps 1780 to 1820

View A, B, & D are seen very frequently from the late 18th to early 19th century by laboring to middling sort women. View E is a cap worn by working class women shown in many of Pyne's British sketches. View C is an unusual example of a naive American young woman of about 1810. These styles of caps often were adorned with silk ribbons in bright pastel colors in widths from medium to quiet wide.

$16.00

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Country Wives
Beribboned Caps 1780 to 1810

This includes a selection of the overly large caps popular at the end of the 18th century. These caps are decorated with extravagant silk ribbons and includes instructions how to make a variety of ribbon rosettes. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London, in 1791 "the prisoner robbed me of all my clothes . . .  she had my cap and ribbon on".

$16.00

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Larkin and Smith
Bonnet c. 1760s to 1770s

This easy to follow pattern gives clear instructions that will walk you thru forming the bonnet brim and then assembling you’re your 1770s era bonnet. Suggestions for trimming and instructions on making trim are also included. By far, the most common fabric bonnets were made of during this period was black silk but blue, white (either linen or silk), green and brown silk and sometimes worsted are also found in runaway ad descriptions. A documentation card is included with each pattern. Many of these bonnets are described in runaway ads for example cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls a newspaper ad in the 1778 Pennsylvania Evening Post included "Ran away . . .  an apprentice girl . . .  of Irish extraction: Had on when she went away, a black silk bonnet with white silk lining".

$15.00

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Front and Back Lacing Stays Pattern

This pattern includes fully illustrated directions to make an authentic and well fitting pair of stays. The stays are worn with a stomacher and the lacing crossed back and forth in the front and spiral bound in the back. Pattern includes two sizes and a documentation card with images of the original stays. Have your bust measure taken while wearing a well fitting bra. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774 "Run away . . .  a Welsh woman . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  an old pair of green coloured stays" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Comes in sizes 32-33, 34-35, 36-37, 38-39, 40-41, 42-43, 44-46, 48-50.

Made in the USA.

$28.00

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JP Ryan 18th Century Half boned Stays

Stays in the 18th century were worn to reshape the upper body. High fashion stays with shoulder straps were designed to create a fairly straight line from the bosom to the navel. Stays were the basic foundation garment upon which all subsequent garments were built. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774 "Run away . . .  a Welsh woman . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  an old pair of green coloured stays" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Comes in sizes 8–22.

$21.00

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Stays by JP Ryan

Strapless stays are designed for comfort and give a cylindrical shape to the torso while allowing full freedom of movement of the arms and shoulders. The fully illustrated directions are included for any necessary alterations required to fit your figure. These stays are appropriate for late 18th century wear and incorporates features from extant 18th century stays in the National Museum of American History and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774 "Run away . . .  a Welsh woman . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  an old pair of green coloured stays" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Comes in sizes 6 through 24 for bust sizes 32-50.

$17.50

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Mill Farm 18th Century Jumps or Leather Stays

Jumps include options for a front and or back laced, lightly boned undergarment that is perfect for work, undress, or a first pair of stays. Leather stays were worn by poor women. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1776 "Ran away . . .  an English servant girl . . .  had on and took with her . . .  a pair of leather stays" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Comes in sizes 8–18.

$10.00

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A Partially Boned Transition Stay Circa 1793-1820

These stays are comfortable, cool on hot summer days, and supportive. The full size pattern is based on an original in the Connecticut Historical Society stay number 1963-42-4. The pattern contains background notes reviewing differences among 18th through the early 20th century stays and corsets, show detailed drawings of transition stays in museum and private collections, and contemporary documentation dating the Connecticut Historical Society stay. These garments were in addition to the stiff and inflexible, waist-compressing item that many people imagine when the word corset is mentioned today. Fully illustrated fitting and construction instructions are included in this pattern. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey in London of 1811 it was recorded "I keep a pawnbrokers shop . . .  the prisoner came to my shop, she looked at some stays that were hanging up in the shop, she asked me if I thought they would fit her, I told her that I had half a dozen more pair in doors, I had no doubt I could fit her, I shewed her some more, she tried one two or three pair and then selected one, for which she was to pay me five shillings".

Each pattern inclueds sizes 8 through 26 for bust sizes 31-1/2-48.

$17.00

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A Pair of Transition Stays Circa 1796-1806

This pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Danvers' Historical Society in Danvers, Massachusetts. The threads appear to be hand spun and the fabric appears to be hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft. The thread count is approximately 40 warp and 36 weft. The pieces are sewn together with linen thread, perhaps the thread used to weave the fabric. The stiffening is whalebone. While the front is fully-boned the back and sides are partially boned. Variations of the front boning from Conner Prairie Museum in Fishers, Indiana and The Chester County Historical Society in West Chester, Pennsylvania are included with the pattern.

Detailed Historical Notes explaining and documenting what is unique about a pair of transition stays are included in the pattern package. For example in The Proceedings of the Old Bailey in London of 1802 it was recorded "she pulled off her stays, and in the lefthand side of the back part of the stays, I found the note.".

The pattern comes in sizes 8-14, 16-20, and 22-26 all with cup sizes B, C, and D. The following sizes are layout out on 45" wide fabric. Sizes 8 through 14 require 1/2 yd. fashion fabric and 2/3 yd. lining, sizes 16 through 20 require 3/4 yd. fashion fabric and 7/8 yd. lining and sizes 22 through 26 require 7/8 yd. of fashion fabric and 1 yd. of lining.

$11.00

Metal Bands:

Past Patterns sells the set of metal bands that are inserted in the horizontal breast-bone casings that make a transition stays unique.

$3.00 a pair.

The stay is worn with Past Patterns Ca 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown (below).

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Larkin and Smith
18th Century Fashionable Gown c. 1775-1785

New!

Please use your bust measurement in stays when ordering.

Suitable for late 1770s-1780s, this gown needs to be made in silk or lightweight cotton fabrics. Fine pleating of the gown skirts release into poufs tied from the inside in the polonaise style or left free. The back of the bodice is pleated to fit the body. Petticoat instructions and a pattern for a bum roll are included. Complete directions with color photographs will walk you through the process using 18th century construction. For example The New-Jersey Journal of 1779 has an ad that included "Ran away . . .  an apprentice girl . . .  had on and took away with her, one long gown of striped purple callico" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

After visiting many museums across the US and England, Larkin and Smith have been giving gown and stay workshops for over 12 years. This gown pattern is developed from these years of examining extant gowns and practical fitting of gowns on modern bodies. Urging from students who were unable to attend full classes or travel the distances resulted in this accurately constructed open front English Gown. Like mother like daughter--try the Larkin and Smith Girl's Gown Pattern.

Pattern fits
Bust 34-35 and Waist 28-29
Bust 36-37 and Waist 30-31
Bust 38-39 and Waist 32-33
Bust 40-41 and Waist 34-35

$28.00

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JP Ryan Robe à l'Anglaise
or English Nightgown c. 1780s

Although this pattern made in 2004 refers to examples as early as the 1750s, these extant gowns are now though to be miss-dated or altered later. Therefore the latest work suggests closed front gowns are appropriate for c. 1780-1790. Despite this, the design is based on 5 extant gowns so that the Robe à l'Anglaise may be constructed in a variety of ways. The two views shown offer a Robe à l'Anglaise en foureau as round gown with an apron front or as a Robe à l'Anglaise à La Polonnaise as an open robe with petticoat. Either view may be made as an open or closed robe. For example, in The American Journal of Rhode Island of 1781 an ad includes "the House of the Subscriber . . .  was broken open, and the following Articles were stolen, viz. One Chintz Gown" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Available in sizes 8-22, one size per pattern.

$21.00

Robe à l'Anglaise

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Larkin and Smith
English Gown c. 1760-1770

New!

Please use your bust measurement in stays when ordering.

A gown even a beginner can make, experience is not a requirement! This full size pattern provides 34 pages of step by step instructions, with 20 pages of color photographs, spiral bound with variations for middling and working class gowns. The back pleating is essential to making a proper gown. Because of this, a template has been include so that anyone can get the pleating looking good right out of the packet.

The gown, often referred to as "en fourreau", although also known as "night gown" as late as 1774 was more often than not just called "gown" by the English. For example The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773, "Ran away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  She stole and took with her, one calico gown of a shell figure" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

This gown style was in use for more than 50 years. The reason? The open front style adapts to up to a 20 pound weight change, more easily than any other style of 18th century gown. This was very important in pre-industrial revolution time period when materials were so expensive.

After visiting many museums across the US and England, Larkin and Smith have been giving gown and stay workshops for over 12 years. This gown pattern is developed from these years of examining extant gowns and practical fitting of gowns on modern bodies. Urging from students who were unable to attend full classes or travel the distances resulted in this accurately constructed open front English Gown. Like mother like daughter--try the Larkin and Smith Girl's Gown Pattern.

Pattern fits
Bust 34-35 and Waist 28-29 Requires 4 to 4 1/2 yards 54-60" Wide Fabric
Bust 36-37 and Waist 30-31 Requires 4 to 4 1/2 yards 54-60" Wide Fabric
Bust 38-39 and Waist 32-33 Requires 4 1/4 to 4 3/4 yards 54-60" Wide Fabric
Bust 41-43 and Waist 34-35 Requires 4 1/4 to 4 3/4 yards 54-60" Wide Fabric
Bust 45-47 and Waist 37-39 Requires 5 yards 54-60" Wide Fabric
Bust 49-51 and Waist 41-43 Requires 5 yards 54-60" Wide Fabric

$28.00

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Country Wives Pattern
Clothing for a Working Class Woman A Dress Set
1810 to 1820

This includes a full size pattern for the dress with cutting directions for a full outfit of cap, chemise, apron, and pocket. The shift pattern is exactly the same as the Country Wives Two Chemises 1805-1807. Clear instructions, suggested fabrics and historical notes are provided with understandable illustrations. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1807, "ANN COOPER was indicted for feloniously stealing . . .  a cotton gown, value 15 s."

XS, S and M
M, L, and XL

$30.00

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Country Wives
The Sooke Dress
A Regncy Dress of the middling Sort c. 1800

This empire style gown sewing pattern works well for the Jane Austen period. The Sooke Dress is currently owned by the Sooke Region Museum, Vancouver Island, British Columbia and is an afternoon or walking dress. Although the dress is stylish it is made of an English two color cotton print with somewhat rough texture. The pattern provides options to make the dress as the original is constructed or in an easier way.

Sizes S, M, and L

$24.00

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Ladies' Robe En Chemise with Optional Train, Puffed and Long Sleeves,
and Two Bodice Options, Structured Style c. 1790-1800

New!

The first types of Robe en Chemise were basically tubes of fabric that were drawn up close to the body by drawstrings in channels. This pattern does not rely on fully functioning drawstrings to keep the fabric drawn in. This is the type of transitional Robe en Chemise that has all the gathers fixed; either by a waistband or fixed gathers at neck and arm, for the puffed sleeve. The bodice opens in back where it just meets and is tied with drawstrings. The bodice ends about half-way between underbust and natural waist. The appearance of the placement of the waist can be changed by tying the sash in different heights on the body. The bodice can be made with or without the bodice lining that is provided in the pattern. The bodice can be made as in View A, with limited gathering front and back or it can be made as in View B with full gathering at front and back. Both views do not have gathering under the arms on the bodice, reducing bulk in this area. Both views can have a high or lower neckline at the front and can have a ruffle at the neck and arm or can be left plain. The ruffles are separate from the dress and the ruffle width, fullness, and the fabric used can be changed as desired by the maker. Either view can have the puffed sleeve or long slim sleeve. Either view can have a train, though the train fabric requirements are not included in View A.

$18.00

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Two Strapped High-Waisted
Upper Petticoats c. 1798-1825

Ideal for the Jane Austen or federalist period when the upper garment requires a petticoat that will not fall. This pattern provides a full size pattern, clear pictures illustrating construction and the stitches used to make an upper high-waisted petticoat. The high-waisted or empire style short gown, spencer or jacket were worn on the top of the body, under these was an outer petticoat (similar to the modern skirt) that could be seen and the under-petticoat (similar to the modern slip). Because of the high waist fashionable from about 1790 to 1820 straps had to be used to hold these petticoats in place. This pattern is coppied with permission from an original at the Genesee Country Village and Museum in Mumford, New York but extensive documentation from both Europe and America are used to justify the use of this garment over a wide area. Additional pictures and descriptions further document what fabrics both the upper and under petticoats were made of. An additional excerpt from Susan Green further explains fabrics that can be used to make the petticoat.

$17.00

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JP Ryan
Pet-en-l'air

The pet-en-l'air has a fitted torso without front waist seam, and a pleated sack back that extends from neckline to hem. Designed to be worn over stays, the Pet-en-l'air was popular from the 1750s to the 1770s or late colonial period.

Available in sizes 6-8 through 22-24.

$24.00

Pet-en-l'air (Robe à la Française)

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Woman's Gown A Robe Polonaise ca. 1770 to 1785

This pattern may be used to make a simple day gown with the option to wear it 'a la polonaise' or tucked up at the hips. Included are directions for the petticoat and hip pads. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1771, "Run away . . .  living in Philadelphia . . .  a Welsh servant girl . . .  she had on, and took with her, when she went away, two calicoe gowns, one dark, the other a purple in diamonds, much worn" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

$14.00

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Mill Farm
Woman's Riding Habit Jacket and Waistcoat Pattern

This c. 1740-1780 riding habit was first used for active sport but increasingly became fashionable for traveling and informal outdoor leisurewear. This pattern includes a complete pattern for the jacket and waistcoat with instructions for the petticoat. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Run away . . .  two Irish servant women, . . .  had on, and took with them, one camblet riding habit, faced with blue peelong" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Sizes 8-10, 12-14, 16-18

$17.00

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J.P. Ryan
Woman's Riding Habit Shirt Pattern
with Cravat and Neck Stock

New!

Since a ladies riding habit is based on a man's garment, the habit was worn with a shirt resembling a man's. Similar to a man's shirt, the woman's shirt could have a stand up collar and worn with a stock. But women could also choose to wear their shirt with a neck cloth and ruffled collars. This shirt was also worn in the 1780s as the redingote became fashionable.

Sizes S, M, L, XL and XXL are all included

$21.00

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JP Ryan
A Fine Collection of
18th Century Jackets
for undress wear

This very special pattern contains 10 pattern pieces which may be combined to create an entire wardrobe of 18th century jackets. Four views are given, each for a different time period. Because all the pattern pieces, i.e. sleeves, cuffs, backs and front, fit together, you may create additional styles, based on your research. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1770, "Run away . . .  a servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her, a linsey jacket, patched under the arms, with patches of a different colour" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Sizes 6-8, 10-12, 14-16, 18-20, 22-24

$21.00

18th Century Jackets

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Ladies' Wrapping Front Gown with Optional Train
Redingote, and Tunic c. 1798-1813 Pattern

View A is a low stomacher apron front style trained or untrained gown. The front of the skirt falls below the bodice, and fastens over the bottom of the wrapping bodice in the ‘en coulisse’ style. This means it has a drawstring in front that ties under the sides and back of the skirt to secure the front. The front of the skirt would also be pinned to the bottom of the bodice. The sleeves are a one piece style that can be cut short,elbow length, or long. View B is in the Redingote style and the skirt is ankle length, opens in front and wraps the same way the bodice does. It has a tall falling collar, lapels and an optional detachable short cape. View C is a wrapping front tunic, meant to be worn over another dress. It is sleeveless, about knee length, and the hem is shorter in front than in back. The skirt opens in front and overlaps like the bodice. All bodices have four total darts which can be converted to gathers. All Views have a narrow back and the skirts are gathered where they attach to the back of the bodices. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1798, a thief took "a muslin gown, value 8s. a cotton gown, value 4s."

$18.00

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Laughing Moon Round and Trained Gown c. 1800-1810

This gown opens on both sides of the front, with the entire front bodice and part of the front of the skirt falling down and open. The inside of the bodice ties together with strings and the falling bodice is pinned into place at the top of the front bodice on the shoulder straps. The bodice and front of the falling skirt are kept in place with ties that tie in the back, keeping the front secure. The front bodice fits just under the bust and the back of the bodice is shorter than the front. The back of the bodice is very small and the armholes extend from the arms onto the back. The long sleeves are very long; so much so they sometimes bunch up on the arm and end at the knuckles of the hand. The front of the skirt is flat with some pleats at the side to hide the fall front. The back of the skirt is very full with many pleats. The inside of the bodice is lined with unbleached muslin. This gown has several sleeve options: The long sleeve in View A may also be cut short or 3/4 length. The puffed sleeve in View B and C also has two lengths: one very short for evening as in View C, or the other slightly longer option which can be worn with an extension to make it a long sleeve as in View B. There is an option to add two small frills to the bottom of the long sleeves if desired. There are three options for the bodice front, which has a drawstring at the top to adjust for fitting. These options include a darted bodice, a gathered bodice and a very full gathered bodice. The darted bodice can be drawn down at center front with a ribbon instead of using the drawstring. The skirt can be hemmed evenly all around for a round gown, and there are three options for a train: short, medium, and a long train which at the longest adds 22 inches to the back of the skirt. This type of gown was worn for day or evening wear; the difference being the sleeve length, type of fabric, and the elaborateness of the decoration. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1800, in a theft trial a team of four thieves "were indicted for breaking and entering . . .  and burglariously stealing . . .  a muslin gown, value 10s."

Includes all sizes 6 to 34.

$18.00

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Past Patterns Ca 1796-1806
Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown

This pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Wayne County Historical Museum in Richmond, Indiana. The threads are hand spun and the fabric is hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft. The background is white, interrupted every 7/8 inch by alternate threads of madder red and indigo blue. Unlike today's fabric, the stripes are at a right angle to the salvage. Pictured at left is the dress fabric.

Illustrated instructions for sewing the garment by hand are included; however, this is an easy garment to sew by machine.

The bodice is conservatively cut yet it has the fashionable small back of the period. As a result of the small back the sleeves form the shoulders, creating a very comfortable fit. Drawstrings fasten the center front closed at the neck and waist. The bodice is lined. The front lining is loose from the armholes to center front. It crosses over and fastens at center front with straight pins. This front lining does not support the bust. It is to help hold the front closed. A corset is worn with this garment.

The pleated skirt is fullest in the back and flat in the front. A 1-1/2 inch crescent-shaped tuck at center front raises the skirt over the toes.

Sizes 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups. Sizes 8 through 14 require 4-1/2 yds.; sizes 16 through 20 require 5 yds. and sizes 22 through 26 require 5-1/2 yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
Multi-sized 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups.

$28.00

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Kannik's Korner Women's Bed Gown
1730-1770

Bed gowns were worn by working women and do not require stays for a good fit. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Ran Away . . .  a servant girl . . .  had on . . .  a blue and white calico bed gown with long sleeves, considerably broke" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Includes sizes XS to XXXL.

$18.00

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Bed Gown c. 1760s-1770s

This bed gown pattern is based on original English bed gowns c. 1770s. The bed gown is fully lined with long sleeves that can be turned up to make a cuff or left long. Period construction is noted in the directions with alternate hand finish/machine directions. Also included in the pattern are instructions for making a petticoat, apron and handkerchief. This gown is an easy starter project for the beginning seamstress. Bed gowns are not formal wear and do not require stays for a good fit (although stays should be worn with them). Because of this, women with proper gowns might consider a bed gown to wear in the morning before you've put on your stays or in the evening after a hot day. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1775, "Ran Away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on and took with her . . .  two striped bed gowns, one lincey and the other linen" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Sizes Small, Medium, Large and (coming soon) Extra Large.

$18.00

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Mill Farm European Bedgown
1730-1770

Bedgowns were worn by working women and do not require stays for a good fit. This pattern has an optional lining, several cuff types, and ties may be added to close the front. Complete directions for making a petticoat are also included. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . .  two Irish servants . . .  the woman . . .  had on . . .  a bedgown, striped blue, red, green and white" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Although this pattern is less expensive than the Kanniks Korner bed gown the directions are not as clear and there are no illustrations to follow. This pattern does not explain the documentation whereas the Kanniks pattern provides full citations.

Sizes 8-10 and 12-18.

$12.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's Short Cloak

Short cloaks were commonly worn by women of all classes during the second half of the 18th century. Being very convenient for working women short cloaks stay closed while working whereas full length cloaks get in the way. This pattern may be easily lengthened which will require additional fabric and tape. In The Rhode Island Newport Mercury of 1773, "RAN away . . .  an indented Irish maid servant . . .  is supposed to have had on a red short cloak" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

Includes all sizes S to XXL.

$14.00

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Mill Farm Long or Short Cloak Pattern

Diagram and instructions for making a long or short cloak 1750 to 1810 with either a large or small hood. In The Rhode Island Newport Mercury of 1774, "RAN away . . .  an apprentice GIRL . . .  had on . . .  a long brown cloak" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls.

$5.00

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Laughing Moon Spencer c. 1798-1809

This Regency spencer pattern contains three views all with a wrapping front. View A has a ruffled collar whereas View B has a long falling collar and a ruffled back. View C has a tall falling collar and pleats at the center back, but you can also opt to omit the falling part of the collar and have just a standing collar on any of the views. There is also an option for a lower neckline with no collar. All Views have a two piece sleeve with attached cuff. Although each bodice has four total darts, the darts can be converted to gathers if you wish. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1806, in a theft trial a team of four thieves "was indicted for feloniously stealing" among other items "one velvet spencer trimmed with lace, value 2 l.".

Includes all sizes 6 to 34.

$16.00

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