Women's PatternsWe offer several companies patterns. Each company has its own sizes available. Shifts | Caps and Hose | Stays | Gowns | Outerwear |
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Kannik's Korner Woman's Shift
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Kannik's Korner Woman's Shift
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Country Wives Two Chemises
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Clothing for a Country Born Woman - early 19th CenturyA Cold Weather Bed Gown SetThis is a complete starter set for a country woman from about 1800 to 1820. The package includes a full size pattern for a cold weather bedgown, leggings and the "Sally" cap from one of the earlier Country Wives patterns. Also included are diagrams for a short sleeved chemise, along with suggestions and notes to complete the outfit of a Metis woman. Instructions for a handkerchief, and draw string petticoat. The bedgown pattern is made from extant garments and artwork from the period which are all cited in the package. One size short gown per pattern, including sizes small medium and large. $24.00 |
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JP Ryan Basic WardrobeContains pattern diagram for shift in all sizes, plus illustrated directions for petticoat, apron and neck handkerchief. Patterns included for short gown and pocket. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1783 "Ran away . . . an Irish servant Girl . . . Had on and took with her, a green skirt, dark calicoe short gown, white stockings, leather shoes with low heels, two striped lincey petticoats, a striped red calicoe short gown" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. One size short gown per pattern, bust sizes 32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44,46, 48-50. $18.00 |
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Clothing for an Indian Woman-early 19th CenturyThis pattern comes complete with patterns for the clothing of an Aboriginal woman. Included are patterns for a strap dress, sleeves, leggings and a chemise/shirt. For Ojibwa or Cree there are notes and illustrations to complete your outfit. This pattern is well researched with a large list of citations. Sizes per pattern, S-M-L. $20.00 |
La Fleur de Lyse Canadienne de la Nouvelle-France with Cap and Coif Pattern circa 1740-1760This one pattern comes complete with everything a woman needs to begin attending French and Indian (1740 to 1760) era historical events including cap, gown, shift, petticoat, handkerchief, apron, and pocket. Besides shoes and stockings you will be set. A full pattern for the mantelet (known as a bedgown in English) is included with two sleeve versions. This shift pattern has a gathered sleeve more common for mid-century impressions opposed to the fitted sleeve which became popular in the 1770s. There are patterns for three styles of caps plus a long lappets cap and coif. Also included are cutting instructions for the petticoat, neck handkerchief and apron with two bib styles. The mantelet requires 1 1/2 yards light-weight wool, linen, cotton print, and 1 1/2 yards, light-weight linen for a lining. Notions are 8 1/2 yards 1" cotton twill tape or 7/8" worsted twill tape in a coordinating color, and 35/2 or 50/3 linen thread. The shift requires 2 1/2 yards white or unbleached linen. The petticoat requires 2 yards light weight wool, linen, or cotton print, 5 1/2 yards 1" cotton or 7/8" worsted twill tape in a coordinating color, and 2 1/4 yards 1/2" cotton or linen tape. The apron needs 1 1/4 yards linen and 1/4" cotton or linen tape. The handkerchief requires only one yard of 2.8 oz. linen or organdy and fine 60/2 linen thread. Suggested cap fabric 100% white handkerchief linen 2.8 oz, organdy, or for poorer caps off white 3.7 oz. linen Suggested pocket fabrics 100% unbleached linen, 6.5 oz or 100% off white linen shirting, 5.5 oz. $34.95 |
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Bonnet |
Kannik's Korner Woman's Caps and Bonnets
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Country Wives
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Kannik's Korner Woman's Cap and BonnetBased on original 18th century directions, this pattern is appropriate for 1775 to 1800 although similar cap and bonnets were used earlier. In some cases bonnets outnumber hats such as in New Jersey runaway descriptions. One from 1776 includes a servant woman who left with "a black silk bonnet." A half yard of 2.8 oz. linen is enough for two caps. Notions for the cap include 1/8" white cotton twill tape and 90/2 white linen thread. The bonnet requires about 2/3 yd. worsted wool or black brown, green, blue, or drab. Notions for the bonnet include 3/4 yd. of 1/4" wide grosgrain ribbon, and both heavy 16/2 linen thread and medium 35/2 linen thread. $12.00 |
Kannik's Korner
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Mill Farm
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Kannik's Korner Woman's and Girl's CapsThis pattern includes many styles of everyday headgear used from 1740-1820. Often women try several styles before settling with one that works well for them. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1770 "Run away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . wears sometimes ribbons, and sometimes caps . . . had on, and took with her . . . two caps for a child, and linen to make more" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls.
One yard of organdy, 2.8 oz. linen or for poorer impressions off white 3.7 oz. linen is plenty for most caps. Most styles require 1/8" white cotton twill tape and 90/2 or 120/2 linen thread. $16.00 |
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Country Wives
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18th Century Wired CapWorn mostly by the middling to gentry classes but is seen in portraits on 'my lady's maids'. This cap was worn as early as 1745 but is most commonly seen from the late 1760s to early 1770s. Required milliner wire is included in the pattern. In The Providence Gazette of 1763 "RAN away . . . a likely lusty Mulatto Servant Woman . . . She is extremely nice in her Head Attire, which is generally ornamented after the modern Fashion". To make this cap you will need 2/3 yard of 36-40" wide or 1/2 yard of 54-60" very fine white linen or organdy and fine 90/2 or 120/2 linen thread. There is an option to add trimmings such as narrow silk ribbon bows to 1 to 1 1/2" wide silk trimmings. $8.00 |
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JP Ryan CapsA simple cap to cover the head, which can be worn with the ears turned toward or away from the face, as desired. An undress cap to be constructed in mid-weight white linen. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "Run away . . . a Dutch servant girl . . . had on, when she went away, a round ear'd cap" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. $7.00 |
Woman's Caps 1720 to 1800Women often try several caps before they find one that compliments their face and they feel comfortable wearing. This pattern provides four different styles that may be further adorned with ribbons to provide individual touches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "Run Away . . . a Dutch servant woman . . . had on an English cap, with a coarse lawn border" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. For most of these caps you will need 1/2 to 3/4 yard of very fine white linen or organdy, 1/8" cotton twill tape, and fine 90/2 or 120/2 linen thread. There is an option to add trimmings such as narrow silk ribbon bows. $9.00 |
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Country WivesA Variety of Lappet Caps mid 18th to early 19th CenturiesCountry Wives lappet caps were commonly worn by the French in both Europe and North America and were often worn by country women, farmers, maids, and genteel ladies. This pattern includes suggestions for fabrics, documentation, and options in the construction. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey in London of 1781 the trial recorded, "The prisoner, Elizabeth Tenant, gave me a piece of lace lappet for a cap, and a cap caul". $15.00 |
Country Wives
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Country Wives
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Country Wives
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JP Ryan 18th Century Half boned StaysStays in the 18th century were worn to reshape the upper body. High fashion stays with shoulder straps were designed to create a fairly straight line from the bosom to the navel. Stays were the basic foundation garment upon which all subsequent garments were built. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774 "Run away . . . a Welsh woman . . . had on, and took with her . . . an old pair of green coloured stays" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Comes in sizes 8–22. The fabrics suggested here are for a working class pair of stays made in America during the 18th century. Our suggestions slightly differ from that of the pattern based on our own observations of extant stays and discussions with Hallie Larkin. This pattern calls for 2 pieces of 1 yard 60" wide sturdy linen one for the outside and another for the interfacing. Most commonly linen stays were made of unbleached, brown dyed, cinnamon and blue for example 6.5 or 8.2 oz. unbleached linen or 6.5 dyed brown linen. Worsted wool was also common for stays especially satin weave yellow, blue, green, lavender, white and eggplant with green and white being most common. One more 3/4 yard piece is required for the lining. Commonly the lining was made of a lightweight blue and white check linen but a simple 3.7 oz. oatmeal linen or 3.7 oz. off white linen was also somewhat common. For basic hand sewing and the channels use 35/2 off white linen thread and quilter's thread or buttonhole twist for sewing eyelets. One roll of 1/4" white or natural cotton twill tape will be enough or at least 4 yards of 1/4" linen tape for the back lacing. One coil of caning is enough for two pairs of stays. You may want 2 metal stays for center front but a busk does the job nicely. Usually the top and bottom of stays are bound with about 7 yards of 1/2" wide kid leather. You can use chamois leather (available from automotive supply since it is used for drying cars but get a natural color) since it is much less expensive. Some original stays are bound with 3/4" linen tape. $18.00 |
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Stays by JP RyanStrapless stays are designed for comfort and give a cylindrical shape to the torso while allowing full freedom of movement of the arms and shoulders. The fully illustrated directions are included for any necessary alterations required to fit your figure. These stays are appropriate for late 18th century wear and incorporates features from extant 18th century stays in the National Museum of American History and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774 "Run away . . . a Welsh woman . . . had on, and took with her . . . an old pair of green coloured stays" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Comes in sizes 6 through 24 for bust sizes 32-50. The fabrics suggested here are for a working class pair of stays made in America during the 18th century. Our suggestions slightly differ from that of the pattern based on our own observations of extant stays and discussions with Hallie Larkin. This pattern calls for 2 pieces of 3/4 yard 60" wide sturdy linen one for the outside and another for the interfacing. Most commonly linen stays were made of unbleached, brown dyed, cinnamon and blue for example 6.5 or 8.2 oz. unbleached linen or 6.5 dyed brown linen. Worsted wool was also common for stays especially satin weave yellow, blue, green, lavender, white and eggplant with green and white being most common. One more 3/4 yard piece is required for the lining. Commonly the lining was made of a lightweight blue and white check linen but a simple 3.7 oz. oatmeal linen or 3.7 oz. off white linen was also somewhat common. For basic hand sewing and the channels use 35/2 off white linen thread and quilter's thread or buttonhole twist for sewing eyelets. One roll of 1/4" white or natural cotton twill tape will be enough or at least 4 yards of 1/4" linen tape for the back lacing. One coil of caning is enough for two pairs of stays. You may want up to 12 metal stays for extra strength in some places (but using a busk in the front will stop the front stays from breaking). Usually the top and bottom of stays are bound with about 7 yards of 1/2" wide kid leather. You can use chamois leather (available from automotive supply since it is used for drying cars but get a natural color) since it is much less expensive. Some original stays are bound with 3/4" linen tape. $15.00 |
Mill Farm 18th Century Jumps or Leather StaysJumps include options for a front and or back laced, lightly boned undergarment that is perfect for work, undress, or a first pair of stays. Leather stays were worn by poor women. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1776 "Ran away . . . an English servant girl . . . had on and took with her . . . a pair of leather stays" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Comes in sizes 8–18. $8.00 |
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A Partially Boned Transition Stay Circa 1793-1820These stays are comfortable, cool on hot summer days, and supportive. The full size pattern is based on an original in the Connecticut Historical Society stay number 1963-42-4. The pattern contains background notes reviewing differences among 18th through the early 20th century stays and corsets, show detailed drawings of transition stays in museum and private collections, and contemporary documentation dating the Connecticut Historical Society stay. These garments were in addition to the stiff and inflexible, waist-compressing item that many people imagine when the word corset is mentioned today. Fully illustrated fitting and construction instructions are included in this pattern. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey in London of 1811 it was recorded "I keep a pawnbrokers shop . . . the prisoner came to my shop, she looked at some stays that were hanging up in the shop, she asked me if I thought they would fit her, I told her that I had half a dozen more pair in doors, I had no doubt I could fit her, I shewed her some more, she tried one two or three pair and then selected one, for which she was to pay me five shillings". Each pattern inclueds sizes 8 through 26 for bust sizes 31-1/2-48. $17.00 |
A Pair of Transition Stays Circa 1796-1806This pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Danvers' Historical Society in Danvers, Massachusetts. The threads appear to be hand spun and the fabric appears to be hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft. The thread count is approximately 40 warp and 36 weft. The pieces are sewn together with linen thread, perhaps the thread used to weave the fabric. The stiffening is whalebone. While the front is fully-boned the back and sides are partially boned. Variations of the front boning from Conner Prairie Museum in Fishers, Indiana and The Chester County Historical Society in West Chester, Pennsylvania are included with the pattern. Detailed Historical Notes explaining and documenting what is unique about a pair of transition stays are included in the pattern package. For example in The Proceedings of the Old Bailey in London of 1802 it was recorded "she pulled off her stays, and in the lefthand side of the back part of the stays, I found the note.". The pattern comes in sizes 8-14, 16-20, and 22-26 all with cup sizes B, C, and D. The following sizes are layout out on 45" wide fabric. Sizes 8 through 14 require 1/2 yd. fashion fabric and 2/3 yd. lining, sizes 16 through 20 require 3/4 yd. fashion fabric and 7/8 yd. lining and sizes 22 through 26 require 7/8 yd. of fashion fabric and 1 yd. of lining. $9.00 Metal Bands:Past Patterns sells the set of metal bands that are inserted in the horizontal breast-bone casings that make a transition stays unique. $3.00 a pair. The stay is worn with Past Patterns Ca 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown (below). |
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Gowns |
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JP Ryan
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Larkin and Smith
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Fig Leaf Patterns
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Country Wives Pattern
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Country Wives
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Fig Leaf Patterns
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Country Wives
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Country Wives
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JP Ryan
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Woman's Gown A Robe Polonaise ca. 1770 to 1785This pattern may be used to make a simple day gown with the option to wear it 'a la polonaise' or tucked up at the hips. Included are directions for the petticoat and hip pads. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1771, "Run away . . . living in Philadelphia . . . a Welsh servant girl . . . she had on, and took with her, when she went away, two calicoe gowns, one dark, the other a purple in diamonds, much worn" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. This gown requires approximately 4 yards (extra yardage is required if stripes or patterns are being used) of linen (striped linens were common), heavy silk, cotton print, or light weight wool fabric for the gown, 3/4 yard of light weight linen for the bodice lining, 1/2 yard linen or Persian silk for the sleeve lining. A petticoat will require an additional 2 yards of linen, heavy silk, cotton print (to match the gown), or light weight wool. Notions required are one spool of 80/3 or 60/2 linen thread, 10 large hook and eyes, 3 1/2 yards of half inch cotton twill or linen tape, 2 yards one inch cotton twill tape, 2 yards 1/4" silk ribbon to match robe, 2 tiny (1/2") buttons, 1 yard plain linen for hip pads, and stuffing material. $12.00 |
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JP Ryan
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Mill Farm
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Fig Leaf Patterns
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JP Ryan
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Past Patterns Ca 1796-1806
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  Dress Fabric  Front Lining Fabric  Back Lining Fabric |
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Kannik's Korner Women's Bed Gown
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Mill Farm European Bedgown
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Cloak |
Kannik's Korner Woman's Short CloakShort cloaks were commonly worn by women of all classes during the second half of the 18th century. Being very convenient for working women short cloaks stay closed while working whereas full length cloaks get in the way. This pattern may be easily lengthened which will require additional fabric and tape. In The Rhode Island Newport Mercury of 1773, "RAN away . . . an indented Irish maid servant . . . is supposed to have had on a red short cloak" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. To make this short cloak you will need between 2 to 2 1/2 yards of wool fabric. Notions required are 2 3/4 yards of 5/8" or 1/2" worsted tape, 2 1/8 yards of 7/8" worsted tape and 35/2 or 50/3 linen thread usually the thread and tapes match the color of the cloak. Includes all sizes S to XXL. |
Mill Farm Long or Short Cloak PatternDiagram and instructions for making a long or short cloak 1750 to 1810 with either a large or small hood. In The Rhode Island Newport Mercury of 1774, "RAN away . . . an apprentice GIRL . . . had on . . . a long brown cloak" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. This pattern requires 5 yards of medium to heavy weight wool, 2 yards of linen buckram interfacing, 1 yard 7/8" worsted tape, and 50/3 linen thread. This pattern provides options for different closing methods. We feel the best option is to use 2 3/4 yards of 5/8" or 1/2" worsted tape to tie the cloak shut. To be sure it does not loosen, hooks and eyes may be added right where the cloak ties shut. $3.00 |
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Shifts | Caps and Hose | Stays | Gowns | Outerwear
