Wools

Wool was the most common fabric in New England in the 18^th century and used to make all garments because of its durability. It was not only used for warmth but, worsteds, due to their absorbency and ability to breathe, are cool when used in the summer. It accepts dyes easily and is available in many colors.

Bag Hose | Linsey Woolsey | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Bay | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

Bag Hose

Bag hose fabric was used to make both Scottish trews and hose as may be seen in this detail of the 1780 The Highland Wedding and this picture of a 1744 Highland soldier. Bag hose fabric may be purchased by the bolt at wholesale prices so please contact us. This is in a limited supply (this is a one time weaving of this hard to find fabric). When the fabric is fulled it will shrink to about 53" wide. It takes approximately 1 to 1 1/2 yards of bag hose fabric to make a pair of size 9 bag hose. Directions for well fitting bag hose may be found in the book Baghose: The construction of (diced or otherwise). Off white linen thread of 35/2 will work well for this fabric when hand sewing.

If you like this fabric you might also be interested in these other plaid wools. The books Tartan: The Highland Habit and The Black Watch at Ticonderoga may also be of interest.

Linsey Woolsey

Linsey Woolsey
55% linen 45% wool, 56" wide, $29.95/yd.

Linsey woolsey (also called lincey or linsey) gained its strength from its linen warp threads and color and warmth from its woolen weft threads. Because of this the stripes run across the fabric rather than with its length. Linsey woolsey is a very old fabric being mentioned twice in the Bible. Linsey was extremely popular for clothing the poor in England and America from (at least) the 16th to 19th centuries and in the 18th century was especially common for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats and for men's under jackets, waistcoats and occasionally coats, linings, trousers, leggings, aprons, hunting shirts, and bed curtains. In the book Recreating The American Longhunter 1740-1790 Rev. Dr. Joseph Doddridge is quoted as saying the women on the western frontier wear "linsey petticoat and bed gown, which were the universal dress in early times". Our linsey woolsey is made of unbleached 100% linen warp threads and will soften with washing but wash as you would any fine wool: on delicate cycle and in cold water with minimal agitation. Lie the fabric flat to dry. Most shrinkage is 10% in the length or linen warp direction. When hand sewing this fabric try 35/2 off white linen thread.

Jean Cloth or Kersey Wove Virginia Cloth

Jean Cloth, 76% wool 24% cotton, 22 oz., 60" wide, $23.00/yd.

Jean Cloth is strong twilled fabric used for Civil war men's trousers and jackets. In the twilling process the cotton lays toward the wrong side of the fabric keeping the wool toward the outside and away from the body. In the 18th century this fabric is one of many types of Virginia cloth which was a homespun fabric usually made of cotton and woolen fibers. Kersey is both a fabric and weave and in the case of Virginia cloth indicates a twill weave. Virginia cloth of kersey weave was used to make durable cheep men's outer garments like breeches, jackets, coats, and waistcoats. Not all Virginia cloth had a kersey weave to it there were many other types of Virginia cloth.

Specialty Weaves

Bay

Bay was used from the 17th century up to the early 19th century when it was being replaced by cotton fabrics. Bay was a coarse, open, plain weave wool made of worsted warp and woolen weft threads. Bay was mostly used as a lining for British and German soldiers' uniforms up to 1802 and habits of monks and nuns. Bay was also used by some specialized craftsmen to use behind looking glasses to preserve the tin and as a lining in cases for example. Much of the information on bay is gathered from Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Thanks to the hard work of James Kochan and Sean Phillips our bay is museum quality reproduction bay woven in England today to specific standards and has the same appearance, weave, milling, and finish as bay made in the late 18th century.