The sign of the unicorn. A fabric shop for 18th century reenactors and historians.

Wools

Wool was the most common fabric in New England in the 18th century and used to make all garments because of its durability. It was not only used for warmth but, worsteds, due to their absorbency and ability to breathe, are cool when used in the summer. It accepts dyes easily and is available in many colors.

Bag Hose | Linsey Woolsey | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Jean Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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Bag Hose

Bag hose fabric was used to make both Scottish trews and hose as may be seen in this detail of the 1780 The Highland Wedding and this picture of a 1744 Highland soldier. Bag hose fabric may be purchased by the bolt at wholesale prices so please contact us. This is in a limited supply (this is a one time weaving of this hard to find fabric). When the fabric is fulled it will shrink to about 53" wide. It takes approximately 1 to 1 1/2 yards of bag hose fabric to make a pair of size 9 bag hose. Directions for well fitting bag hose may be found in the book Baghose: The construction of (diced or otherwise). Off white linen thread of 35/2 will work well for this fabric when hand sewing.

If you like this fabric you might also be interested in these other plaid wools. The books Tartan: The Highland Habit and The Black Watch at Ticonderoga may also be of interest.

Bag Hose Fabric, 100% wool, 58" wide.
$54/yd.

Bag hose fabric for Scottish historic reenactors and museum interpreters.
WWH 100 scarlet red/white/black check
shown before (top) and after fulling (lower).


Add Diced Bag Hose WWH 100 to Cart

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Bag Hose Fabric, 100% wool, 58" wide.
$54/yd.

Bag hose fabric for Scottish historic reenactors and museum interpreters.
WWH 101 scarlet red/white check
shown before (top) and after fulling (lower).


Add Check Bag Hose WWH 101 to Cart

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Linsey Woolsey

Linsey Woolsey
55% linen 45% wool, 56" wide, $31.95/yd.

Linsey woolsey (also called lincey or linsey) gained its strength from its linen warp threads and color and warmth from its woolen weft threads. Because of this the stripes run across the fabric rather than with its length. Linsey was extremely popular for clothing the poor in England and America from (at least) the 16th to 19th centuries and in the 18th century was especially common for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats and for men's under jackets, waistcoats and occasionally coats, linings, trousers, leggings, aprons, and bed curtains. Our linsey woolsey is made of unbleached 100% linen warp threads and will soften with washing but wash as you would any fine wool: on delicate cycle and in cold water with minimal agitation. Lie the fabric flat to dry. Most shrinkage is 10% in the length or linen warp direction. When hand sewing this fabric try 60/2, or 35/2 off white linen thread.

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WLW 100 natural white

In The Virginia Gazette of 1772 "RUN away from the Subscriber [in] Maryland, the five following SERVANT MEN . . .  All the above Servants had on under Jackets of white Linsey".

Add Natural White Linsey Woolsey WLW 100 to Cart

Lincey woollsey for 14th, 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th and 19th century reenactors, military historians and museum interpreters.
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WLW 101 black

In 1775, The Pennsylvania Gazette reported, "RAN away . . .  a Dutch servant man . . .  speaks no English . . .  had on, and took with him . . .  a new homespun lead coloured cloth jacket, lined with lincey, and wooded buttons". When hand sewing this linsey try 60/2 black linen thread.

Add Black Linsey Woolsey WLW 101 to Cart

Linsey-woolsey for 14th, 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th and 19th century re-enactors, military historians and museum interpreters.
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WLW 103 natural stripe

In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London in 1741 a woman "was indicted for stealing 2 flaxen Sheets, value 3 s. 2 Linsey Wolsey Bed Curtains, value 3 s."

Add Natural Stripe Linsey Woolsey WLW 103 to Cart

Linsy woollsey fabric swatch for 14th, 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th and 19th century re-enactors, military historians and museum interpreters.
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WLW 105 natural stripe

In The Virginia Gazette of 1774, "RUN away . . .  two convict Servants [one of them] . . .  a Welsh Woman . . .  had on, and took with her, a . . .  new striped Country made Linsey Bed Gown and Petticoat . . .  She is smart and active, and capable of any Business, can read and write".

Add Natural Stripe Linsey Woolsey WLW 105 to Cart

Linsey woollsey for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century reenactors, military historians and museum interpreters.
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Hazel wearing the Fig Leaf Open Robe ca. 1771 gown made with the closed robe option of blue linsey woolsey (WLW 106) while she measures natural stripe linsey woolsey (WLW 105).

Hazel wearing the Fig Leaf Open Robe ca. 1771 gown made with the closed robe option of blue linsey woolsey (WLW 106) while she measures natural stripe linsey woolsey (WLW 105).

WLW 106 blue

In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London, in 1806, "MARY STAFFORD was indicted for feloniously stealing . . .  a child's frock, value 1 s. and a child's petticoat, value 6 d . . .  the child (she is three years old) . . .  had only a little smock and linsey petticoat on then".

Add Linsey Woolsey Blue WLW 106 to Cart

Lincey woollsey for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century reenactors, military historians and museum interpreters.
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WLW 107
navy and natural stripe

In 1780, a female slave was described in a New Jersey newspaper with "a pale blue and white short linsey gown and petticoat, almost new".

Add Linsey Woolsey Navy and Natural Stripe WLW 107 to Cart

Linsey woolsey for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century reenactors, military historians and museum interpreters.
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WLW 108 Madder red
with stripe

In New Jersey of 1779, a slave ran away with "a red striped linsey short gown and petticoat".

Add to Linsey Woolsey Madder Red with Stripe WLW 108 Cart

Lincey woollsey for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century reenactors, nautical historians and museum interpreters.
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WLW 109 Grey Stripe

In 1778 advertised in the Pennsylvania Packet, "Ran away . . .  living in Germantown, a . . .  servant girl . . .  She had on and took with her . . .  three or four homespun linsey petticoats, one of them white, some blue and white striped, and some of a dirty sheep's grey striped, two or three bed gowns of the same".

Add Linsey Woolsey Grey Stripe WLW 109 to Cart

Linsey woolsey for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century reenactors, historians and museum interpreters.
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WLW 110 Grey

In New Jersey of 1780, a male slave ran away with a "grey linsey woolsey waistcoat, much worn".

Add Linsey Woolsey Grey WLW 110 to Cart

Linsey woolsey for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century reenactors, historians and museum interpreters.
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Jean Cloth or Kersey Wove Virginia Cloth

Jean Cloth, 76% wool 24% cotton, 22 oz., 60" wide, $23.00/yd.

Jean Cloth is strong twilled fabric used for Civil war men's trousers and jackets. In the twilling process the cotton lays toward the wrong side of the fabric keeping the wool toward the outside and away from the body. In the 18th century this fabric is one of many types of Virgina cloth which was a homespun fabric usually made of cotton and woolen fibers. Kersey is both a fabric and weave and in the case of Virginia cloth indicates a twill weave. Virginia cloth of kersey weave was used to make durable cheep men's outer garments like breeches, jackets, coats, and waistcoats. Not all Virgina cloth had a kersey weave to it there were many other types of Vriginia cloth.

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WWW 828 Brown

In The Virginia Gazette of 1776, "RUN away . . .  a slim black fellow . . .  I know not what clothes he took with him; but if he has his new waistcoat and breeches, they were of Virginia wool and cotton cloth of kersey weaving."

Add Jean Cloth Brown WWW 828 to Cart

Jeancloth fabric swatch for 18th and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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WWW 829 Oxford

In The Virginia Gazette of 1744 to 1745, "RUN away . . .  an Apprentice Lad . . .  being a Mustee . . .  Had on a Virginia Cloth Jacket, Kersey-wove, and the Sleeves plain".

Add Jean Cloth Oxford WWW 829 to Cart

Jeancloth fabric swatch for 18th and 19th century reenactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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WWW 821 Silver Grey

In The Virginia Gazette of 1773, "RUN away . . .  an English convict servant . . .  by trade a house carpenter and joiner . . .  Took with him a . . .  a Virginia cloth waistcoat, kersey wove, of black and white".

Add WWW 821 Silver Grey to Cart

Jeancloth fabric swatch for 18th and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Plain Weave Virginia Cloth

wool/cotton/other, 64" wide

Virgina cloth was a homespun fabric usually made of cotton and woolen fibers and used for clothing the working classes. Plain weave Virginia cloth was used to make cheep women's gowns and petticoats and men's breeches, jackets, coats, and waistcoats. Not all Virgina cloth was plain weave there were many other types of Vriginia cloth.

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Green Virginia Cloth
$7.99/yd.
WWC 116

This is a plain weave Virginia cloth which was used primarily in Virginia to make women's jackets, petticoats, and gowns and men's jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774, "RUN away . . .  an English Servant Man . . .  by Trade a Bookbinder . . .  had on, when he went away, a . . .  Virginia Cloth Coat of a Copperas Colour". Dark green 35/2 linen thread or medium green 50/3 linen thread are both close matches for hand sewing this Virginia cloth.

Add WWC 116 Green Virginia Cloth to Cart

Virginia cloth fabric swatch for 18th and 19th century reenactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue Virginia Cloth
$7.99/yd.
WWC 117

Virginia cloth like this was used to make women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns and men's jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774, "Committed to the gaol . . .  two Virginia born negro women; one of which . . .  has on a . . .  Virginia cloth petticoat . . .  The other . . .  has on a Virginia cloth gown, white dimity and striped Virginia cloth petticoats". Navy Blue 35/2 linen thread is the best match for hand sewing this Virginia cloth.

Add WWC 117 Blue Virginia Cloth to Cart

Virginia cloth fabric swatch for 18th and 19th century reenactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Specialty Weaves

Cloth Colored Welsh Cotton, wool, 60" wide, $15.00/yd.
WWC 109

new Now in stock!

Welsh cotton was a plain weave woolen produced and worn by the labouring class of Wales and for the export market. It is similar to flannel being made of a loose weave without a nap but a bit more coarse. Welsh woolen cloth was used as a lining and to make common people's clothing such as waistcoats, and breeches. In The Virginia Gazette of 1775, "COMMITTED to the gaol of this county, two servants, one a man . . .  He is an Englishman . . .  had on a light cloth coloured Jacket".

Add Cloth Colored Welsh Woolen Cloth WWC 109 to Cart

Herringbone wool fabric swatch for 17thm, 18th and 19th century reenactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Green Welsh Cotton, wool, 60" wide, $15.00/yd.
WWC 108

new We ship promptly!

Welsh cotton was a loosly woven woolen produced and worn by the labouring class of Wales and exported. It is similar to flannel being made without a nap but a bit more coarse. Welsh woolen cloth was used as a lining and to make common people's clothing such as men's waistcoats, and breeches and women's gowns and petticoats. In The Virginia Gazette of 1775, "RUN away . . .  two indented SERVANTS, one . . .  an Englishman . . .  by Trade a Joiner . . .  He had on, and took with him . . .  a new green Cotton Waistcoat with Plaid Sleeves, and lined with Osnabrug".

Add Green Welsh Woolen Cloth WWC 108 to Cart

Welsh woolen cloth fabric swatch for 17thm, 18th and 19th century reenactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Gray Herringbone, 100% wool, 60" wide, $10.00/yd.
WWC 107

new Now in stock!

Herringbone wool is found both before and after the 18th century but for some reason is not found during the 18th century. Because of this, this fabric may be better for 17th century and earlier and 19th century historians. Herringbone is an easy variation of twill and twill wools are commonly found in the 18th century. Being a mixed gray herringbone the herringbone weave is not redily apparent and may be used to a limited extant.

Add Gray Herringbone Wool WWC 107 to Cart

Herringbone wool fabric swatch for 17thm, 18th and 19th century reenactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Bag Hose | Linsey Woolsey | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Jean Cloth | Specialty Weaves

 

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