The sign of the unicorn. A fabric shop for 18th century reenactors and historians.

Worsted

In the 18th century there were many types of worsted wools mostly produced in Norwich, England. Worsted wools are a good wool summer cloth. Being lightweight this worsted (made of long opposed to short staple fibers), has a twill weave which makes it strong but a poor insulator. Twills were often used to make breeches because of the durability but may also be used for men's coats, waistcoats, and jackets and women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats. If you will be hand sewing please ask us for 50/3 linen thread in a color to match.

Bag Hose | Linsey Woolsey | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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Yellow Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $12/yd.
WWT 361

This twill is fine and durable. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773, "Run away . . .  an Irish servant woman . . .  had on . . .  a yellow under petticoat, with red binding". Try 50/3 or 80/3 canary yellow linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Dark Navy Blue Worsted, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $11/yd.
WWC 105

new Now in stock!

This twill is fine and durable. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1778, "Run-away . . .  a negro woman . . .  Had on . . .  a blue worsted gown". Try black 60/2 linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Black Worsted, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $11/yd.
WWC 112

new Now in stock!

This worsted is a very good weight for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats, and men's jackets, waistcoats, and breeches. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774, "Run away . . .  two convict servant women . . .  [one] had on, and took with her, a black stuff gown . . .  a black petticoat". Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Brown Stuff, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWB 805

Stuff is a general term used for worsted wools. This plain weave fine weight worsted often referred to as tropical weight today is a good weight for women's gowns and petticoats but may also be used for either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. Brown was one of the most common colors available for wool fabrics. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Run away . . .  an English servant girl . . .  had on when she went away a dark brown stuff gown". Try 80/3 brown linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue Stuff, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWB 806

Stuff is a general term used for worsted wools. This plain weave fine weight worsted often referred to as tropical weight today is a good weight for women's gowns and petticoats but may also be used for either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. Blue was one of the most common colors described for stuff. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "A Scotch Girl . . .  ran away . . .  her dress was a . . .  blue stuff quilted petticoat, lined with blue baize". Try 35/2 navy blue linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Red Blue Plaid, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $15/yd.
WWC 100

new Now in stock!

This plaid is not a clan tartan. Clan tartan began in the 19th century. Prior to this time there was a great abundance of tartans as may be seen for example in this detail of David Allan's The Highland Wedding painted in 1780. Navy blue 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool.

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Worsted wool plaid fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Cloth Colored Stuff, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $12/yd.
WWT 362

Stuff is a general term used for worsted wools. This plain weave fine weight worsted often referred to as tropical weight today is a good weight for women's gowns and petticoats but may also be used for either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. In The Virginia Gazette of 1773, "Run away . . .  two Slaves . . .  a Wench . . .  the Look of an Indian, and is so, her Mother having been brought from the Spanish Main to Rhode Island . . .  took with her . . .  an old light coloured Stuff ditto [gown]". Light brown 80/3 linen thread is a pretty good match for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Cloth Colored Worsted, 99% Wool, 1% Other 60" Wide, $12/yd.
WWT 252

This twill is fine and durable. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. Light colored is frequently mentioned throughout the 18th century. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . .  a servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her, when she went away, a light coloured gown". Try 50/3 or 80/3 beige linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Forest Green Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $11/yd.
WWC 111

new Now in stock!

Worsted is good weight for women's gowns, petticoats, and jackets, and men's jackets, waistcoats and breeches this twill is fine and durable. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1772, "Run away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on when she went away, a long old green worsted gown". For hand sewing 35/2 green linen thread is the same color.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century reenactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Coarse Green Worsted, Wool, 61" Wide, $12/yd.
WWC 115

new Now in stock!

This twill is coarser, a bit thicker, with a more prominent ridges than the others on this page and would therefore be very good for hard wearing items like men's breeches and waistcoats. It may also be used for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and less commonly for men's coats. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Run away . . .  a Dutch servant Woman . . .  had on . . .  a green worsted under jacket, lined with linen". Green linen thread 50/3 is a very good match for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Dark Green Stuff, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $12/yd.
WWT 360

Stuff is a general term used for worsted wools. This plain weave fine weight worsted often referred to as tropical weight today is a good weight for women's gowns and petticoats but may also be used for either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . .  a native Irish servant girl . . .  had on and took with her . . .  three petticoats, one lincey, with small brown and white stripes, one ditto green stuff". Try 80/3 green linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Green Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $16/yd.
WWT 251

Being a good weight for women's gowns, petticoats, and jackets, and men's jackets, waistcoats and breeches this twill is nicely fine and durable. In The Royal Gazette of New York in 1783, "Run away . . .  an English servant Girl . . .  had on a light green gown". Try 50/3 or 80/3 green linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Flannel

Flannel in the 18th century was made of a plain or (arguably) twill weave wool. Flannel was used as an insulating layer usually worn close to the skin for garments like women's shifts, gowns and under petticoats and for men's shirts, drawers, under jackets, and waistcoats and for lining outer garments like coats and jackets. Sometimes flannels were used to make outer garments like gowns and breeches. Please ask us for availability of other colors you might be interested in. In London in 1761, Richard Rolt, published his book A New Dictionary of Trade and Commerce. In this book Rolt stated "some use it [wool flannel] for waistcoats, drawers, shirts, and shifts, and women most commonly for under petticoats."

Flannel is related to baize and plains. Baize and plains are cheaper than flannel and tended to be not as soft as flannel. These flannels may therefore be used in place of baize of plains.
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Gray Brown Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWC 101

new Now in stock!

Scottish plaid was not common in early America but it does occasionally show up. The colors in this twill are easily obtainable from natural dyestuffs. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . .  two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . .  it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this twill wool.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Gray Black Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $15/yd.
WWC 106

new Now in stock!

Scottish plaid made entirely of shades of gray and black can be made using natural undyed wools. Although plaid was not common in early America it is occasionally mentioned. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . .  two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . .  it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool.

Add Gray Plaid Flannel WWC 102 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Gray Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWC 102

new Now in stock!

Scottish plaid like this may be made of all natural dyestuffs and common in the Highlands but was not common in early America but it does occasionally show up. This twill besides gray and black has red, blue, and tan in the warp and blue in the weft. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . .  two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . .  it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool.

Add Gray Plaid Flannel WWC 102 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Gray Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWT 228

Scottish plaid like this may be made of all natural dyestuffs and common in the Highlands but was not common in early America but it does occasionally show up. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . .  two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . .  it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. This flannel is a twill and besides shades of gray has two very narrow green stripes alternating with light gray in the weft and one purple pin stripe in the corp.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue and Red Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWT 221

This plaid nor the one above are clan tartans. Clan tartan began in the 19th century. Prior to this time there was a great abundance of tartans as may be seen for example in this detail of David Allan's The Highland Wedding painted in 1780. Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. This flannel is a twill.

Add Blue and Red Plaid Flannel WWT 221 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue Flannel, Wool, 60" Wide, $8/yd.
WWC 103

new Now in stock!

This warm flannel was used to make men's waistcoats and jackets, and women's petticoats and aprons. It will also make a warm lining and was sometimes used for women's shortgowns or bedgowns. For example in The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Ran Away . . .  [in] 1778, from the subscriber, living in Hardwick, Sussex county, New Jersey, a Negro Wench . . .  had on . . .  a pale blue flannel petticoat". Blue 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool.

Add Blue Flannel WWC 103 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue Flannel, Wool, 66" Wide, $12/yd.
WWC 118

new Now in stock!

Warm woolen flannel was used to make men's waistcoats and jackets, and women's petticoats. It will also make a warm lining and was sometimes used for women's shortgowns or bedgowns. For example in The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Ran Away . . .  [in] 1778, from the subscriber, living in Hardwick, Sussex county, New Jersey, a Negro Wench . . .  had on . . .  a pale blue flannel petticoat". Pale blue 50/3 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool.

Add Blue Flannel WWC 118 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Grayish Brown Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWV 455

Brown and gray were common colors for wool fabrics in the 18th century. In The Providence Gazette of 1782 "Ran away . . .  a Negro Wench . . .  one dark Petticoat . . .  one striped Linen Wrapper, one dark woollen Ditto". Black 60/2 linen thread or gray 80/3 linen thread will both blend in nicely for hand sewing this wool.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Brown Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWB 804

Brown was a very common color for wool fabrics in the 18th century. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Run away . . .  an indented servant girl . . .  a Scotch woman . . .  had on, and took with her, a short jacket and petticoat, of brown flannel". Brown 50/3 or 80/3 linen thread for hand sewing is just a bit lighter than this wool. This flannel is a twill.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Gray Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWV 422

Gray was a common color for wool fabrics in the 18th century. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1771 a witness testified "I was near the pond while Clarke was in; I saw Mrs. Horsford there; I am sure that is the woman; she had a black, or a dark grey gown on." Gray 80/3 linen thread for hand sewing is the best match for this wool.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Gray Flannel, 100% Wool, 59" Wide, $15/yd.
WWC 113

new Now in stock!

Many wools were gray in the 18th century. In The Virginia Gazette of 1766 "RUN away . . .  four convict servant men (ENGLISHMEN) . . .  [one] had on when he went away a gray coat and jacket". Gray 80/3 linen thread for hand sewing is the best match for this wool.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Scarlet Red Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $18/yd.
WWL 304

Scarlet red wool flannel was died with the shell of a beetle and therefore more expensive than the duller reds obtained from the madder root. If you are interested in a not so bright red take a look at WWB 800 below. Red shirts were taken with the Voyage of Discovery in the early 19th century but these should be looked at as unusual for the 18th century. Red flannel petticoats were common in both England and New England. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Ran away . . .  a mulatto wench . . .  had on and took with her . . .  a red flannel quilted petticoat". Scarlet red linen thread 50/3 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a twill.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Red Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWB 800

This red is within the colors obtained by the madder root and was therefore much more affordable than scarlet red above. The Virginia Gazette of 1773 advertised "Ran away . . .  two Slaves, namely . . .  a Wench . . .  has much the Look of an Indian, and is so, her Mother having been brought from the Spanish Main to Rhode Island . . .  and took with her . . .  a red Flannel Petticoat".

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Hunter Green Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWB 802

Green was a less common color for wool fabrics in the 18th century but is seen. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Run away . . .  a Dutch servant Girl . . .  had on, when she went away, a green woollen woman's jacket". Green 50/3 or 80/3 linen thread for hand sewing is just a bit lighter than this wool. This flannel is a twill.

Add Hunter Green Flannel WWB 802 to Cart
Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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White Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $17/yd.
WWL 305

White wool flannel was the most common color of flannel during the 18th and early 19th centuries. White flannel was especially used to make shirts, shifts and petticoats in the 18th century. For example, in February, 1774, "an Indian girl" was advertised in Rhode Island and the ad continued, "had on when she went away a flannel shift" as advertised in Rhode Island. Off white linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave and not a snow white but more of a natural creamy white.

Add White Flannel WWL 305 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Navy Blue Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWB 801

Blue aprons are often described but all of them which mention fabric describe it as blue flannel or woolen. This fabric may also be used to make gowns, petticoats, and jackets or men's breeches, jackets and waistcoats or as a lining. In The Providence Gazette of 1782 "Ran away . . .  a Negro Wench . . .  one blue woollen Ditto [apron]". Navy blue linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric well. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and binding of bedgowns. This flannel is a twill.

Add Navy Blue Flannel WWB 801 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Black Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd. Now reduced price $11/yd.
WWT 310 Not pictured

"Run Away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  a black and white linsey petticoat, black quilt[ed petticoat], a flannel ditto [petticoat]" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette in 1773. Black 50/3 linen thread or 60/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 1/2", 5/8, and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and binding of bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave.

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Bag Hose | Linsey Woolsey | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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