Wools - Worsteds and Flannels

Worsted Wool

In the 18th century there were many types of worsted wools mostly produced in Norwich, England and because of this they were often refered to as Norwich goods. Worsted wools are a good wool summer cloth. Being lightweight worsteds are made of long opposed to short staple fibers, are strong wearing, but poor insulators. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Bag Hose | Linsey Woolsey | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Bay | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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Pink Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $11/yd.
WWT 363

This plain weave worsted wool is a very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats. In The Royal Gazette of 1781 New York advertised "Run away, a likely Mulatto Wench . . . had on when she went away, a . . . pink petticoat.". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. For hand sewing orange 50/3 linen thread is the closest match.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Dark Purpleish Blue Stuff, 100% Wool, 62" Wide, $11/yd.
WWT 370

This plain weave Norwich good is very fine and soft. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The Pennsylvania Chronicle of 1771, "Ran away . . . an Irish servant Girl . . . Had on . . . blue stuff petticoat". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Try black 60/2 linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Blue Stuff, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWB 806

Stuff is a general term used for worsted wools. This plain weave fine weight worsted often referred to as tropical weight today is a good weight for women's gowns and petticoats but may also be used for either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. Blue was one of the most common colors described for stuff. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "A Scotch Girl . . . ran away . . . her dress was a . . . blue stuff quilted petticoat, lined with blue baize". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Try 35/2 navy blue linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Dark Green Worsted, 100% Wool, 59" Wide, $11/yd.
WWT 365

Twill worsted wool works well to make women's gowns, petticoats, and jackets, and men's jackets, waistcoats and breeches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773, "Run away . . . a Dutch servant girl . . . had on, when she went away, a . . . new dark coloured short gown". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. For hand sewing 50/3 green linen thread is a close match.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century reenactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Sage Green, 100% Wool, 62" Wide, $11/yd.
WWT 366

Twill worsted fabric was often used to make women's gowns and petticoats but may also be used for either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . . a native Irish servant girl . . . had on and took with her . . . three petticoats, one lincey, with small brown and white stripes, one ditto green stuff". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Try 80/3 green linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Light Green Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $16/yd.
WWT 251

Being a good weight for women's gowns, petticoats, and jackets, and men's jackets, waistcoats and breeches this twill is nicely fine and durable. In The Royal Gazette of New York in 1783, "Run away . . . an English servant Girl . . . had on a light green gown". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Try 50/3 or 80/3 green linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Yellow Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $12/yd.
WWT 361

This twill is fine and durable. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats and breeches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773, "Run away . . . an Irish servant woman . . . had on . . . a yellow under petticoat, with red binding". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Try 50/3 or 80/3 canary yellow linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Wool Flannel

Flannel in the 18^th century was made of a plain or (arguably) twill weave wool. Wool flannel was used as an insulating layer usually worn close to the skin for garments like women's shifts, gowns and under petticoats and for men's shirts, drawers, under jackets, and waistcoats and for lining outer garments like coats and jackets. Sometimes flannels were used to make outer garments like gowns and breeches. Please ask us for availability of other colors you might be interested in. In London in 1761, Richard Rolt, published his book A New Dictionary of Trade and Commerce. In this book Rolt stated "some use it [wool flannel] for waistcoats, drawers, shirts, and shifts, and women most commonly for under petticoats."

Flannel is related to baize and plains. Baize and plains are cheaper than flannel and tended to be not as soft as flannel. These flannels may therefore be used in place of baize of plains. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.

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Brown Flannel, 100% Wool, 58" Wide, $17/yd.
WWV 532

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A two over two twill wool that may be used for petticoats, and sometimes gowns and jackets. For men it was typically used for under-jackets and waistcoats. It may be viably substituted for the cheaper (and less soft) baize and plain fabrics. For example in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Run away . . . an indented servant girl . . . a Scotch woman . . . speaks in the Scotch dialect; had on, and took with her, a short jacket and petticoat, of brown flannel" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Black 60/2 or brown 35/2 linen thread will both blend into this wool flannel.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Mixed Sheep's Black Flannel, Wool/Wool Blend, 60" Wide, $12/yd.
WWV 533

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Wool flannel with a natural grayish brown weft and natural white warp. This wool flannel is suitable for working class garments such as women's petticoats, and sometimes gowns and jackets. For men it was typically used for under-jackets and waistcoats. Wool flannel was commonly used as a lining fabric. For example in The Virginia Gazette of 1779, "Run away . . . two negroes viz. . . . Joan about 16 years old, had on when she went away . . . a mixed black yarn petticoat" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread will blend into this wool flannel well when hand sewing.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Gray Black Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $15/yd.
WWC 106

Scottish plaid made entirely of shades of gray and black can be made using natural undyed wools. Although plaid was not common in early America it is occasionally mentioned. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . . two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . . it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Gray Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWC 102

Scottish plaid like this may be made of all natural dyestuffs and common in the Highlands but was not common in early America but it does occasionally show up. This twill besides gray and black has red, blue, and tan in the warp and blue in the weft. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . . two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . . it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Gray Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWT 228

Scottish plaid like this may be made of all natural dyestuffs and common in the Highlands but was not common in early America but it does occasionally show up. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . . two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . . it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. This flannel is a twill and besides shades of gray has two very narrow green stripes alternating with light gray in the weft and one purple pin stripe in the corp.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Blue and Red Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.$10/yd.

WWT 221

This plaid nor the one above are clan tartans. Clan tartan began in the 19th century. Prior to this time there was a great abundance of tartans as may be seen for example in this detail of David Allan's The Highland Wedding painted in 1780. Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. This flannel is a twill.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Scarlet Red Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $16.00/yd.
WWL 304

Scarlet red wool flannel was died with the shell of a beetle and therefore more expensive than the duller reds obtained from the madder root. Red shirts were taken with the Voyage of Discovery in the early 19th century but these should be looked at as unusual for the 18th century. Red flannel jackets for men and petticoats for women were common in both England and New England. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Ran away . . . a mulatto wench . . . had on and took with her . . . a red flannel quilted petticoat". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Scarlet red linen thread 50/3 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a twill.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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White Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $17/yd.
WWL 305

White wool flannel was the most common color of flannel during the 18th and early 19th centuries. White flannel was especially used to make shirts, shifts and petticoats in the 18th century. For example, in February, 1774, "an Indian girl" was advertised in Rhode Island and the ad continued, "had on when she went away a flannel shift" as advertised in Rhode Island. Off white linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave and not a snow white but more of a natural creamy white.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Navy Blue Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $16.00/yd.
WWB 801

Blue aprons are often described but all of them which mention fabric describe it as blue flannel or woolen. This fabric may also be used to make women's gowns, petticoats, and jacketsor men's breeches, jackets and waistcoats or as a lining. In The Providence Gazette of 1782 "Ran away . . . a Negro Wench . . . one blue woollen Ditto [apron]". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Navy blue linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric well. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and binding of bedgowns. This flannel is a twill.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Black Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWT 310 Not pictured

As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls "Run Away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on, and took with her . . . a black and white linsey petticoat, black quilt[ed petticoat], a flannel ditto [petticoat]" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette in 1773. Black 50/3 linen thread or 60/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 1/2", 5/8, and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and binding of bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave.

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Bay

Bay was used from the 17th century up to the early 19th century when it was being replaced by cotton fabrics. Bay was a coarse, open, plain weave wool made of worsted warp and woolen weft threads. Bay was mostly used as a lining for British and German soldiers' uniforms up to 1802 and habits of monks and nuns. Bay was also used by some specialized craftsmen to use behind looking glasses to preserve the tin and as a lining in cases for example. Much of the information on bay is gathered from Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Thanks to the hard work of James Kochan and Sean Phillips our bay is museum quality reproduction bay woven in England today to specific standards and has the same appearance, weave, milling, and finish as bay made in the late 18th century.

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Natural White Bay, 100% Wool, 5 oz/sq yd, 52" Wide, $32/yd.
WWK 200

Natural white bay wool was used for the lining of British infantry coats which have white turnbacks. Off white 35/2 linen thread matches this fabric best when hand sewing your quality reproduction garment.

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Wool bay fabric swatch for 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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British Royal Blue Bay, 100% Wool, 5 oz/sq yd, 52" Wide, $32/yd.
WWK 201

British royal blue bay wool was used for the lining of British infantry coats which have blue turnbacks. Navy blue 35/2 linen thread matches this fabric best when hand sewing your quality reproduction garment.

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Wool bay fabric swatch for 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Bag Hose | Linsey Woolsey | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Bay | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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