Worsted and Flannel Wool Fabric

Worsted Wool Fabric

In the 18th century there were many types of worsted wool fabric mostly produced in Norwich, England and because of this they were often refered to as Norwich goods or Norwich stuff. Stuff is a generic term for many types of worsted wools. Worsted wools are a good wool summer cloth. One Norwich good called duory was specifically made for men's clothing and sometimes used for summer suits. Being lightweight worsteds are made of long opposed to short staple fibers, are strong wearing, but poor insulators. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Broadcloth | Worsted Fabric | Flannel

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Black Stuff, 100% Wool, 65" Wide, $25/yd.
WWV 620

new Common for petticoats!

This plain weave Norwich good is very fine, soft and strong. It is made of earthy gray mixed in with black. This would likely be the best option for a Jesuit priest's habit if black flannel is too hot for you and this wont fade like linen. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774, "Run away . . . two convict servant women . . . [one of them] had on, and took with her, a black stuff gown". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Black 80/3 linen thread matches this fabric.

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Worsted wool and silk fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Gown weight wool for 17th century to the present reenactors.

Grey Cross Barred Stuff, 100% Wool, 62" wide, $20/yd.
WWV 573

This light even grey has narrow lines of black, yellow and light grey intersecting to make the cross bars. This worsted is one of the lightest weight worsteds we stock having an airy hand. In the 18th century this would have been a product of Norwich and was most often used for women's gowns but may be used for petticoats and jackets as well. For example in The Boston Evening-Post an ad in 1771 advertised "Ran away . . . a Dutch servant girl . . . Had, and took with her, two short gowns, one callico, the other striped, a cross-barred" cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Grey 35/2 linen thread matches well for hand sewing this fabric.

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Light Brown Mixed Stuff, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $25/yd.
WWV 619

This twill weave Norwich good has a hard tight finish rarely found in modern worsteds but characteristic of most 18th century worsteds. This will work well for women's riding habits, gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. For example advertised in The Boston Gazette of 1783, "Ran away . . . a Negro Boy . . . Had on when he went off, a brown mix’d Homemade Cloth Jacket and Trowsers of the same." This is cited from personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Off white 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool and silk fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Gown weight wool for 17th century to the present reenactors.

Brown Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" wide, $25/yd.
WWV 638

new A pretty new brown!

Worsted of a durable twill and soft makes a wonderful summer gown with a splendid wrinkle free drape. A very good weight for women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats, and men's jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches. In the early 19th century this worsted could be used for a gowns, spencers and pelisse. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773, "Ran away . . . a mulatto wench . . . had on and took with her, and India callico gown, and one ditto of brown worsted". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Brown 35/2 linen thread is a pretty good match as is brown silk quilter's thread or buttonhole twist.

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Indigo Blue Striped Worsted, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $25/yd.
WWV 627

This twill weave Norwich good is a gorgeous blue with two narrow white stripes with a black line in the middle. It is good weight for women's riding habits, gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1752, "RAN away . . . a Convict Servant . . . had been in the Army for several Years, with the Camp in Flanders, and at the Battle of Culloden, where she lost her Husband; she had on when she went away . . . an old dirty blue Stuff Gown, with check Linen Cuffs". Navy blue linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Gown weight wool for 17th century to the present reenactors.

Greyish Blue Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" wide, $25/yd.
WWV 599

This plain weave Norwich good is fine and strong of a lovely greyish blue. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1752, "RAN away . . . a Convict Servant . . . had been in the Army for several Years, with the Camp in Flanders, and at the Battle of Culloden, where she lost her Husband; she had on when she went away . . . an old dirty blue Stuff Gown, with check Linen Cuffs". Try grey 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing.

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Dark Indgo Blue Worsted, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 544

Newly returned to stock!

This twill Norwich good is very fine and durable. A very good weight for women's riding habits, gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The New York Journal of 1774, "absented from her master, a Scotch indented servant girl . . . had on . . . a blue worsted skirt". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Try black 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Almost black Indgo Blue Worsted, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $25/yd.
WWV 633

new Fine and soft!

This twill Norwich good is very fine and durable and looks black except in full sunlight. A very good weight for women's riding habits, gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The New York Journal of 1774, "absented from her master, a Scotch indented servant girl . . . had on . . . a blue worsted skirt". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Try black 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing.

Add Almost Black Indigo Blue Worsted WWV 633 to Cart

Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Red worsted for 17th century to the present reenactors, nautical historians and museum interpreters.

Red Worsted, 100% Wool, 62" wide, $25/yd.
WWV 259

new Back is stock!

This twill weave Norwich good has a hard tight finish rarely found in modern worsteds but characteristic of most 18th century worsteds. This will work well for women's riding habits, gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. For example advertised in The New York Journal of 1774, "absented from her master, a Scotch indented servant girl . . . had on . . . two red petticoats, one of which is fine serge" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Scarlet 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing.

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Wool Flannel

Flannel was in common use by the second half of the 17th century and was made of a plain or (arguably) twill weave wool. Flannel continued to be made purely of wool into the 19th century when, like so many other fabrics, cotton flannel began to replace it. Wool flannel was used as an insulating layer usually worn close to the skin for garments like women's shifts (probably of white flannel), gowns and under petticoats and for men's shirts, drawers, under jackets, and waistcoats and for lining outer garments. Sometimes flannels were used to make outer garments like gowns and breeches. In London in 1761, Richard Rolt, published his book A New Dictionary of Trade and Commerce. In this book Rolt stated "some use it [wool flannel] for waistcoats, drawers, shirts, and shifts, and women most commonly for under petticoats."

Flannel is related to baize and plains. Baize and plains are cheaper than flannel and usually not as soft. These flannels may therefore be used in place of baize or plains. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.

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Scarlet Red Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $26.50/yd.
WWL 304

Scarlet red wool flannel was died with the shell of a beetle and therefore more expensive than the duller reds obtained from the madder root. Red shirts were taken with the Voyage of Discovery in the early 19th century but these should be looked at as unusual for the 18th century. Red flannel jackets for men and petticoats for women were common in both England and New England. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Ran away . . . a mulatto wench . . . had on and took with her . . . a red flannel quilted petticoat". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Scarlet red linen thread 50/3 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a twill. For sewing button holes try scarlet silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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White Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $26.50/yd.
WWL 305

White wool flannel was the most common color of flannel during the 18th and early 19th centuries. White flannel was especially used to make shirts, drawers, shifts and petticoats in the 18th century. For example, in March, 1774, "an Indian girl" was advertised in Rhode Island and the ad continued, "had on when she went away a flannel shift" as advertised in The Newport Mercury taken from the book Wives, Slaves and Servant Girls. Off white 60/2 or 35/2 linen thread and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matche this fabric well. Matching tape is often seen on the hems of petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave and not a snow white but more of a natural creamy white. For sewing button holes try white silk button hole twist.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Navy Blue Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $28.99/yd.
WWB 801

A soft twill wool commonly used next to the skin, as in women's under-petticoats, aprons, and gowns. For men it was typically used for drawers, underjackets, and waistcoats. This fabric works well for a lining. The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, of 1790 "I am a servant to Mrs. Wheeler, the kitchen maid there. I can swear to the blue flannel apron". Navy blue linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and dark indigo blue worsted wool tape matches this fabric well. Matching tape is sometimes seen on the hems of petticoats and bedgowns. For sewing button holes try navy blue silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Black Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $25/yd.
WWT 310

As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls "Run Away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on, and took with her . . . a black and white linsey petticoat, black quilt[ed petticoat], a flannel ditto [petticoat]" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette in 1773. Black 50/3 linen thread or 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 1/2", 5/8, and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and binding of bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave. For sewing button holes try black silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

Bay

Bay was used from the 17th century up to the early 19th century when it was being replaced by cotton fabrics. Bay was a coarse, open, plain weave wool made of worsted warp and woolen weft threads. Bay was mostly used as a lining for British and German soldiers' uniforms up to 1802 and habits of monks and nuns. Bay was also used by some specialized craftsmen to use behind looking glasses to preserve the tin and as a lining in cases for example. Much of the information on bay is gathered from Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Thanks to the hard work of James Kochan and Sean Phillips our bay is museum quality reproduction bay woven in England today to specific standards and has the same appearance, weave, milling, and finish as bay made in the late 18th century.

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Natural White Bay, 100% Wool, 5 oz/sq yd, 52" Wide, $42.00/yd.
WWK 200

This fabric is currently out of stock. It may be a while before we get more.

Natural white bay wool was used for the lining of British infantry coats which have white turnbacks. Off white 35/2 linen thread matches this fabric best when hand sewing your quality reproduction garment.

Wool bay fabric swatch for 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.

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Broadcloth | Worsted Fabric | Flannel | Bay | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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